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The Dark Side
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Stack, The T,S 

The Dark Mark 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Lee Hansche 7/5/16
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: a little stitch of my new line, me sweating to get...

Description 

In style and rock type this line is similar to the two routes to the right of it. In difficulty it is a whole different story. The first 3/4 is pretty straight forward though there are a few tricks to be figured and executed. Climb easily enough up to the first horizontal crack. Place a solid piece of gear. Clip a high bolt before engaging with the lower crux involving a slopy, gritty crimp. Move up on better edges to a nice stance at the next horizontal and place a small piece before clipping the 2nd and last bolt and entering the puzzling final boulder problem. A few underclings/sidepulls a tiny razor edge and some serious balancy footwork and body tension get you to the lip. It's not over yet. Work your way left with effort and on to a rewarding stance where you can comfortable clip the anchor.

The rock on this section of the cliff is a little crumbly so there is a little of that. I cleaned it off thourougly and most of the holds used are pretty solid but you might kick off a little kitty litter here and there. If the rock quality was pristine it would get another star and a half because the movement is fantastic.

I based the grade on the fact that the last hard section feels about v5. As always please give your respectful opinion on the grade. I'm not fussed about grades.

Location 

This is now the farthest left route at The Dark Side. Start just right of a large detached rock leaning against the cliff. I start just right of the small maple tree. The climb trends up and left.

Protection 

A couple of cams and 2 bolts lead to a two ring/bolt anchor.


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