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The Dangerous Poodle
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
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A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Over Heals Pitch 2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mind Meld T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | FA: Todd Swain and Donette Swain |
| Page Views: | 758 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on May 19, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start in the same spot as A Farewell to Poodles, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of Head Over Heals.
Traverse right along horizontal cracks to the left edge of a ceiling. Make spooky moves up and right using a thin, rotten flake to gain the base of the Head Over Heals crack (after the roof portion of that route).
Follow the left leaning crack all the way to the top (Head Over Heals moves right into a different crack at a ceiling). In addition to the face move to gain the crack, there's another difficult move just after Head Over Heals jogs to the right at the ceiling.
The upper cracks on this route are quite fun.
Vogel's JT West guide has Head Over Heals drawn as going up the upper crack, when in fact the route jogs right at the second ceiling and climbs up to the fixed anchor atop P1.
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