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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Farewell to Poodles T 
Astropoodle T 
Dangerous Poodle, The T 
Easy As Pi T 
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 
Fusion Without Integrity T 
Head Over Heals T 
Mind Blender T 
Mind Meld TR 
Mind Over Matter T 
Mind over Splatter T 
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 
Route 182 T 
Space Walk T 
Suspect Rock T 
Unknown T 

The Dangerous Poodle 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Gunkswest on May 19, 2016

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Description 

Start in the same spot as A Farewell to Poodles, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of Head Over Heals.

Traverse right along horizontal cracks to the left edge of a ceiling. Make hard and spooky moves up and right using a thin flake to gain the base of the Head Over Heals crack (after the roof portion of that route).

Follow the left leaning crack all the way to the top (Head Over Heals moves right into a different crack at a ceiling). In addition to the face move to gain the crack, there's another difficult move just after Head Over Heals jogs to the right at the ceiling.

The upper cracks on this route are quite fun.

Vogel's JT West guide has Head Over Heals drawn as going up this crack, when in fact almost everyone jogs right and climbs up to the fixed anchor atop P1.

Location 

Start in the same spot as A Farewell to Poodles, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of Head Over Heals.

Protection 

Carry a standard JT rack with perhaps extra hand-sized pieces.


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