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The Dainty Butterfly 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Troy Davison in 2011
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Nov 16, 2015

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Description 

A slightly overhanging crimp line that gets progressively harder until a very thin crux just below the anchor. Get ready to grab some footholds!

Start on the crack that heads up and right to a decent shake where the crack ends. From the rest, follow incut crimps for a few bolts then cut right to the arete for a good shake. A few more long moves on similar crimps set you up below the very thin crux. With the chains staring you in the face, and your crimp strength fading, imagine you are a dainty butterfly as you pull on nonexistent holds.

This is a great technical route on excellent rock. Get on it!

Location 

Right of Bleak December.

Protection 

Bolts and two bolt anchor.


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