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The Daily Universe 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 17 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: August 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,152
Submitted By: tonymclane on Sep 1, 2015

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Roof

Description 

The Daily Universe 5.12b FA Tony McLane Jorge Ackermann August 21, 2015

Pitch 1-2 borderline. 5 10b - 5.8

Pitch 3 to 6 The Daily Planet 5.12a(b) finish via original Beckham/Sandhal 5.12b or Moorhead/Ike 5.11c. Either way end on Beckham/Sandhal anchors.

Pitch 7 - 5.11c 25m Face climb right to obvious jug, traverse right along wide crack. 3 bolts one #4

Pitch 8 - 5.12c 20m , 5 bolts #2 #3 #.5 Extend first 4 bolts. Good rests, big holds, nice exposure. Number 3 after 2nd bolt is useful for a dogging second. Off route Bolt in upper roof after 3rd bolt is a direct open project.

Pitch 9 5.12a 60m face climb left to bolt, #.75(double runner) in undercling. clipping badge aid route bolt out left will result in heinous drag. Climb up and right towards sharp flakes. wandering positive climbing to horizontal(#1). Positive edges above, then Traverse into final roof 5.9 (aidline)7 bolts total.

Pitch 10 5.10c 15m step right of aid line into obvious crack traverse back left onto ledge. Belay takes #1,#2.

Pitch 11 5.11d 35 lay back or jam crack. pro blue tcu to #2. 1 bolt

Pitch 12-17 angels crest


All stations bolted expect pitch 8. Helmets recommended.

Traverse Sasquatch ledge. short pitch to easily traversed ledge. Climb into angels crest or high plains drifter if you're still hungry

Protection 

Double rack cams .3 to 3. One 4
Wires
Long slings.


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