REI Community
Rogers Slide
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bill Route T 
Crucible of War, The T 
Grand Game, The T 
Kings and Desperate Men T 
Little Finger T 
Little Finger Direct T 
Matrix Reloaded T,S 
Matrix, The S 
Parallel Dreams T 
Screaming Matrix T,S 
Screaming Meaney T 

The Crucible of War 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Tom Rosecrans & Robert Livingston Nov 2007
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 8, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Crucible in Black Solid Line, "Variation"...

Description 

Adirondack Rock (at least the 1st Ed'n; I don;t have the 2nd yet) gives this climb a 5.6+, but MntPrjct doesn't have that grade available, so I put it in at 5.7. The book also lists it as "PG" but unless I missed a placement I'd give it an "R/X". I found nothing until the bolt.

START - 40-50 ft down from the high point of the tree ledge, "behind" a pine tree.

P1 (Var) - Up some small corners (gear ???) then the slab past a bolt and then 2 or 3* more bolts. Belay on a ledge to the left (fixed gear) 140 ft 5.7 R/X [ * My sketch notes indicate a total of 4 bolts on the pitch.]

P2 - Continue up easier rock to the fixed anchor at the right end of the large overlap above. 70-80 ft 5.5

P1 - Variation (Top Rope) The unprotected line 15 (+/-)ft left of the bolted route offers nice climbing in the 5.6 range from the P1 anchors. These anchors may also be reached with an easy traverse from the gear anchor at the top of P1 of Tone-Bone Tennys / The Grand Game.

Descent - Rap the route

Location 

This climb is located on the slab left of the usual climbs like "Matrix" and "Little Finger."

Approach: From the boat landing move more directly up, making a Class 3-4 / easy 5 move or two to the tree ledge that marks the base of these climbs. Beware of lose rocks if people are below at the boat landing.

Protection 

Draws The Guidebook indicates "small gear" can be placed before the first bolt.


Photos of The Crucible of War Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nancy at first belay
Nancy at first belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Nancy on second pitch
Nancy on second pitch

Comments on The Crucible of War Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About