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Stump Buttress
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The Crow's Nest 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 121
Submitted By: SeanKuus Kuusinen on Aug 8, 2010

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Kevin leading pitch 2.

Description 

This route follows the obvious dihedral on the south face of Stump Buttress. The climbing is 5.8 and 5.9 all the way, with some sections of devious pro. There are anchors at the top of P1 and P3, so you need two ropes to get off.

P1: Start at the base of the west face of Stump Buttress. Start up the gully between The Needle (the 200 foot tall detatched pillar) and Stump. After about 50 feet of gully climbing, gain the thin crack in the right-facing corner. Climb this crack for 60 more feet to the anchor (5.9).

P2: Climb the crack off the belay. Stemming relieves some of the tenuousness of this first 30 feet. Gain the ledge then scramble up to the obvious chimney. Pull through this chimney (crux 1) then climb another 15 feet to the base of a large roof, belay here (5.9).

P3: Climb the roof (crux 2). After the roof you'll be on a ledge. From here, take the right-most crack (5.7) to the summit anchors. Say "hi" to the crows.

Protection 

Standard rack to 4". Two ropes.


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Rock Climbing Photo: The Crow's Nest.
BETA PHOTO: The Crow's Nest.

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By Scot Eden
Jun 4, 2012

Where is the anchor at the top of pitch 3?

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