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The Crow's Nest
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The Crow's Nest 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 970
Submitted By: BDalhaus on May 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

In short, this route looks much easier from the ground, but the moves are challenging and surprisingly difficult to read, which is probably what made it both interesting and enjoyable.

Stick clip the first bolt if you're not feeling too confident and follow jugs for a couple of moves until a short bulge is in your face. Luckily, the crux comes early, which is getting from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd on crimps and flakes. Easier climbing follows up to the next bolt, then comes a fun exit to the anchors involving your choice of stemming, laybacking, mantling, or lunging.

Location 

Scramble up the gully separating the main wall from the rest of this crag. This route starts just right of the two trees.

Protection 

4 bolts to anchor - stickclip recommended


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By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route deserves more traffic. The odd-looking middle section and awesome wide-stemming finish are great! Well worth getting on & wrestling with the start crux to get to the rest of this awesome line.
By Legalto
Jul 14, 2014

Really fun climb. The beginning reminded me of huge feature boulder problems that are typically seen at bouldering comps. I wish there was another bolt between the third and fourth would be nice. It's a solid 10 feet in between, and I'm not sure how safe the fall is @_@
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 14, 2014

Chris is planning on changing the bolts a bit. We were on it the other day and he marked where he wants them.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This route is wonderful! This route is sustained at the grade, and climbs very well. many rests and cruxes requiring different techniques. The view at the top is great!
By Andrew Hewitt
From: Somerville
Sep 18, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good route that is a bit of a change of pace from the rest of the routes at Crow's Nest. Excellent opening moves and challenging crux that requires lots of technique.

I don't think the bolts have been updated b/c it is still a bit sporty as far as Rumney goes. Don't blow the 3rd clip or you're going for a potentially painful ride.

The top stemming is amazing!
By Torie Kidd
From: NH
Nov 1, 2016

Really enjoyed this one. I wish it went on longer. The climbing was fun and thought provoking, and the bolting keeps you honest.

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