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The Crouch 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Chris Lindner
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: ChrisHau on Nov 26, 2015

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Description 

An amazing route, featuring some of the wildest moves you'll ever pull on rope.

The sustained 5.12 climbing to the crux at around fifty feet doesn't feature any smackdown moves, but slowly ramps up in difficulty until you hit the crux. Expect flowing crossovers between side pulls and an occasional long reach here and there.

At the crux, the wall blanks out, and you'll realize why it took until 2008 for this route to get an ascent. Grab a good left-handed blocky edge, pick from a variety of right-hand intermediates, paste your feet, and throw for a sloped edge that seems astronomically far away.

After a match and one more move, you arrive at a large ledge where you can collect yourself. Next comes the eponymous "crouch" move, which starts with you establishing on a good pocket and a small gaston. The one-arm dyno to the flat jug above will be one of the most crowd-pleasing moves you'll ever pull.

After getting a little shake, proceed to a redpoint crux involving techy crimps and a powerful gaston to establish at the base of the roof. Enjoy the airy shakeout, then pull one last long move to the top of the cliff.

Location 

Right of Xanth (13b)

Protection 

Permadraws from second bolt onwards.


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By ChrisHau
Nov 26, 2015

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