Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Dana's Arch Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Man's Car T 
Beat Box S 
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 
Crimson Eye , The T 
Dana's Arch T,S 
DGS  T 
Golden Road S 
Heaven's Gate T,S 
Jungle Fun S 
Tempituous S 
Wildest Dreams T 

The Crimson Eye  

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ryan Hoover, Chandler Davis, Michal Rynkiewicz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,138
Submitted By: Ryan Hoover on Apr 24, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The P4 crux.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 - 5.10c Climb Lamplighter to the first pitch anchors of Heavens Gate.

P2 - 5.11- Break left into a corner with blue lichen. Juggy climbing leads to a boulder problem before the anchors.

P3 - 5.10 Climb straight above the belay following sustained side pull and crimps. Easier gear climbing leads to the belay.

P4 - 5.11- A long pitch of flawless face climbing.

Location 

Starts on Lamplighter. From the first pitch of Heavens Gate, break left at an obvious small corner.

Protection 

14 Draws single rack to 1". Single rack to 3" for Lamplighter. It can be rappelled with a single 70, but due to the traversing nature, it is easier to rappel Heavens Gate.


Photos of The Crimson Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The extremely textured P4.
The extremely textured P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chandler rocking the "Doug Taylor" at th...
Chandler rocking the "Doug Taylor" at th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Purple - The Crimson Eye, Blue - Heavens Gate, Red...
Purple - The Crimson Eye, Blue - Heavens Gate, Red...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading into the corner of P2 from Heavens Gate An...
Heading into the corner of P2 from Heavens Gate An...
Rock Climbing Photo: Michal on P3.
Michal on P3.

Comments on The Crimson Eye Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 12, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
As 9/12/16, a buddy went through and tightened all bolts.
By Thomas Ramier 1
Jun 8, 2016

Wow. Amazing route development. It's like it's always been there. Fun climbing on clean featured stone that looks more like SoCal rock then the UTW. Climate change?

Instant classic alongside Heaven's Gate. Nice work!
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jun 27, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Fantastic route , yes, but be ready for minimum 11c climbing. A couple of pieces of gear can be handy on p3, p4. My trip report: Here
By Josh Baxley
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 28, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

If you don't follow the bolt line on P3 it will feel closer to 5.10+. Go straight up and right after clipping the second to last bolt (I think), then traverse left along a thin rail. Feels like you're off route but that's the only way I could figure it out.
By Andrew Davidson
From: Everett, WA
Jul 1, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I agree, this is a great route. Pitch 3 & 4 were definitely the money pitches. P2 is real easy climbing then slaps you in the face with a boulder problem you need to have dialed for even a chance to send. My only complaint would be the placement of the first bolt on P4. being that it was 5 feet right of the anchor below some stiff climbing to start the pitch. Gear wise, excluding P1, I placed a red #1 C4 twice and a green .75 C4 once