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The Crescent 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 13'
Original:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Christian Prellwitz on Oct 12, 2013

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Technical and great!

Description 

This is an aesthetic and technical line that follows a beautiful, arching flake up a tall, slabby face.

Start sitting at the bottom of the flake with your left hand on a good hidden sidepull and your right hand wherever you prefer on the obvious flake. Pull off the ground and angle rightwards via some technical foot moves to eventually reach the arete with your right hand. Continue bumping your right hand up the arete and doing whatever you can with your left to keep from barndooring. Clever footwork and strong body tension will allow you to reach a good crimp below the lip with your left hand. From there, locate some good top out holds and figure out a way to turn the lip. Done!

While this climb has not been previously documented, it's obvious that it has been climbed before. I met a guy named Pete (from NY) who used to live in the area and he said he climbed the problem 5-10 years ago and thought he might have done the first ascent, given how much cleaning he had to do. If anybody has any more history or information, feel free to share!

Location 

Located just beyond 'Welcome To Heartbreak'. In other words, walk directly uphill from either the left side of 'Moose Tracks' or 'Moat Crack'. This boulder is about 100 feet uphill of these climbs and is easily identified by the obvious crescent flake feature.

Protection 

Two or three pads. A spotter is useful as well.


Photos of The Crescent Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the general line of travel of 'Th...
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the general line of travel of 'Th...

Comments on The Crescent Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 13, 2013

There is potential for this line to be climbed without using the arete out right. This would likely be quite difficult (v9 or harder perhaps?) but it would also likely yield an amazing technical line, though somewhat contrived.

The line is relatively clean but could use a bit of a scrub in spots, most notably on the top out. I'll try to do it next time I'm out there, but just wanted to give a heads up in the meantime.

I shot some video of the line, which I'll post up at some point in the next few weeks.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 13, 2013

Matt-- I figured it made the most sense to put this problem in this section/area, but if you think it'd make more sense somewhere else, let me know.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 12, 2013

Footage of this problem starts at 7:19

By Michael Plesser
Apr 29, 2016

Sent the direct today. Entered it as "pooping diamonds", so bring a tight core and pads!

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