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Creamsickle, The 

The Creamsickle 

WI5-6

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 300'
Original: WI5-6 [details]
FA: Jim Knight & Brian Smoot in 1983
Season: The Bitter Cold of Winter
Page Views: 1,122
Submitted By: Stymingersfink on Dec 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Detail on the Creamsickle pillar. I've seen this f...

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The pillar of the Creamsickle is unmistakable for anything else, showing less frequently and for shorter periods of time than most other climbs in the Wasatch. Originally climbed twentyfive years ago on straight-tools...

Cruxes include: Crossing the stream, thin ice slabs and a steep vertical pillar. If you're not up to soloing WI3R, you'd better do this climb in two pitches... or perhaps hit Bridal Veil instead?

Above the thin smears, just at the base of the snow field below the pillar, on the west side: there is a two bolt anchor 190' above the start.

Above the pillar, move up past three icy steps to a two bolt anchor on the west side. Bring some sling to replace the tat hanging there. ~190' rap to the anchor mentioned above.

This pillar is shorter and more difficult than it appears from the road... MUCH more so.

Location 

First route of distinction in the canyon. Less than 1/2 mile up the canyon from the guard shack, on the right hand side. Find the next turnout and park. Cross the creek, ascend the thin icy slabs to the base of the pillar, which you may find more of once above the pillar proper. Descend from tree above left of pillar, finish rapping the route.

Protection 

Screws


Photos of The Creamsickle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The approach, less the creek, to The Creamsickle.
BETA PHOTO: The approach, less the creek, to The Creamsickle.

Comments on The Creamsickle Add Comment
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By bsmoot
Dec 29, 2007

There are bolted rap stations for the descent now...you need 2 ropes. This cool climb is 2-3 pitches. Beware of avalanche danger from the gully to the East.
By Stymingersfink
Jan 10, 2008

Thanks to BSmoot for FA information! :)
By RKM
From: Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
Jan 9, 2017

Watched this climb for years waiting for it to form (like from 1976). Hiked up a couple of times to find the final pillar unstable. Finally did it with Jason Jones and Brian Smoot around 2000. Pretty hard ice climb and may be a little dangerous. I have not seen it form much since then. The last several years - hardly a hint of the pillar forming.

If I remember right, we could not find any anchors and we chopped a 'bollard' for the rappel. I figured it was about a 50/50 chance of working.

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