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The Creamery

Select Route:
Buckets Forever 
Cookies and Crimps 
Fast and the Flurrious, The 
First Come First Served 
Frigidaire 
General Electric 
General Steampunk 
Icebox Slab 
Lactose Tolerant 
Pop, Lock, and Drop 
Silent Observer 
State of the Art 
Stick Boy's Festive Season  
Sucker Punch 
Sunset Delight 
Tap and Sickle 
Whiskey and Success 

The Creamery Rock Climbing 


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Location: 34.4598, -119.69012 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,205
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: andy patterson on Nov 17, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Basic overview. There are more boulders scattered ...

Description 

The Creamery has been climbed over the decades by at least a small handful of intrepid locals, but no substantial development occurred till the Summer of 2013. I had been eyeing the boulders below the old Monastery (burned in the Tea Fire) for years, and after taking a long, hard look at the vegetated hillside, I finally mustered the gumption to explore. Paydirt!

This place isn't as large as the Brickyard, but the rock is generally better, or, in some cases MUCH better. The climbing varies dramatically from low-ball butt-draggers to tall, proud, technical faces. Grades range from V0 to V12(and up), with a pretty good dispersion of difficulty. There's something for everyone here.

After talking to some other locals (namely Kelly Lindsay), I found out that this secret paradise was referred to by some as The Scorpion Boulders. In the interest of clarity, and with respect to the psyche of the dedicated crew that helped me develop this area, the boulderfield was dubbed The Creamery, and many of the problems vaunt ice-cream, freezer-appliance, dessert, or confectionary titles. Why? Because at the time we started climbing there, I had just finished doing all the metal-work for the new McConnell's Ice Cream store in downtown SB. Their frozen cream dominates the world with its goodness.

Currently, we are putting up new problems every week or so, and there's room for more development. I'll be posting as promptly as I can, but in the meantime I wanted to at least get some word out.

Access note: the property above the Creamery is private. I don't know how far down the hillside their property-line continues, but consider it prudent to not rile the locals. Approach the Creamery from Rattlesnake trail, and don't try to drive in from the top.

Getting There 

Lucky for us SBers, The Creamery is only about 15 minutes from central SB.

Park at Rattlesnake trailhead. Start by walking up trail. After climbing out of the riverbed on some short switchbacks, you leave the trees. Walk another 80 feet or so, and look for a break in the bushes to your right. The trail is faint at first (I wanted to make it somewhat hidden to hikers), but the higher you go up the hillside, the better the trail becomes. The first good boulder you come to has a tall, intimidating face.

Climbing Season

For the * Santa Barbara Bouldering area.

Weather station 4.0 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',4],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',3],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Creamery

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Creamery:
Buckets Forever   V1-2 5     Boulder, 15'   
Sunset Delight   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   
Lactose Tolerant   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 15'   
Cookies and Crimps   V4- 6B     Boulder, 12'   
General Electric   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   
Sucker Punch   V5 6C     Boulder, 8'   
General Steampunk   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   
Pop, Lock, and Drop   V6 7A     Boulder, 20'   
Frigidaire   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   
The Fast and the Flurrious   V7 7A+     Boulder, 8'   
Whiskey and Success   V9 7C     Boulder, 12'   
First Come First Served   V10 7C+ PG13     Boulder, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Creamery

Featured Route For The Creamery
Rock Climbing Photo: Thomas Townsend wearing a beanie.

First Come First Served V10 7C+ PG13  California : Central Coast : ... : The Creamery
Destined for glory, this one.Begins in obvious cave. Start with left hand on vertical crimp and right hand on sloping edge. The idea is to start with your whole body in the cave. Do a desperate and shoulder-wrenching move to a pinch at the edge of the cave. Figure out transition to crimp-rail without swinging off the rock, and top out boulder via highball slab. Amazing stone, amazing position, amazing moves. Did I say I like this problem?You can start the problem on the right-hand edge of the ca...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of The Creamery Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sucker Punch Boulder.
Sucker Punch Boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Frigidaire Boulder.
Frigidaire Boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: South Face of The Icebox.
South Face of The Icebox.

Comments on The Creamery Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2014
By Galen MacDougall
Dec 3, 2013
Nice work, Andy! I just saw the new trail developments for the first time the other day, and could see it must have taken a lot of effort. Thanks for bringing access to this sweet boulder field in the SB foothills.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Dec 3, 2013
Thanks, Galen. As I write this, my forearm and left hand ache with Poison Oak sores. Currently, the trail is quite good, and the First Come First Served boulder has great flat landings, despite its steep positioning.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Dec 9, 2013
Love the old school guide. Actual artwork. So cool. Isn't there a program that can do that for you though?
By Mike Stearns
Mar 22, 2014
What's with the stashed pads, abundant ticks, and even two-feet long tick marks?

Is this how the boulders in SB should be treated? Are the boulders just an extension of the gym now?

I sure appreciate the development. A little stewardship should go along with it.
By Richard Shore
Mar 22, 2014
Maybe the above description should say "out of respect for the FA-ists it shall remain known as the Scorpion Boulders."
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 23, 2014
Yeah, it could be titled as The Scorpion boulders, but to be honest, I'm not 100% sure that that was even what it was called. Kelly seemed to be hazy on the details, and I just wanted to include what it MIGHT have been called. I'll take any historical info folks can offer. In the meantime, I wanted to honor the extremely dedicated and motivated folks developing the area.

Enjoy the fruits!
By Richard Shore
Mar 24, 2014
Kelly was hazy on the details? The dude has a mind like a steel trap. Just rousing you, Andy. But seriously, Scorpion Boulders is a much sexier name..
By Bob Banks
Mar 26, 2014
I dunno about that Shore.

You're at the Fiesta 5 with 12 dollars in your pocket. There are two movies showing, both starring Halle Berry and Charlize Theron. One is called Scorpion, the other is The Creamery.

I know which one I'm buying popcorn for.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 27, 2014
Bob, I have nothing witty to say. You raised the bar way, way too high.
By Richard Shore
Apr 1, 2014
Touche, Bob.

Unfortunately, the stars of this flick are hairy, farmer-tanned, shirtless men. I'll save my $12.
By Kelly Lindsay
Jun 30, 2014
Hazy? Thanks Andy.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jul 1, 2014
Kelly, you are THE encyclopedia of bouldering around these parts. I didn't mean "hazy" as an insult. Respect, respect, respect.
By Kelly Lindsay
Jul 1, 2014
Yea, I know Andy. I do support you guys more than you know. I am very impressed with all the new stuff that has happened here and am supportive of most of the name changes. I agree that names can be changed, but I feel that there should be some sort of agreement with the entire local community before it gets accepted.
By Galen MacDougall
Aug 28, 2014
Interesting debate over the name of this place. I climbed a fair amount of the easy stuff here in December 2008 with friends just weeks after the Tea Fire swept through and you could walk straight through the barren ash remains to the boulders. Without knowing any previous history, I called it "The Monastery" in honour of Mount Calvary Monastery above, which burned to the ground in that fire. To me (and my peers), that name still holds the truest sense of the feeling I get when climbing there...and probably always will.

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