The Crag Ranch Rock Climbing
Left side of the crag. Unfortunately the rock qual...
Located in the newer western valley at Devil's Head The Crag Ranch offers almost 30 new routes ranging from 5.9 to 5.12+. Both sport and trad climbs are found here, with about 2/3 of the routes being sport lines. There are some multi pitch sport lines and some very long routes, up to 30 bolts long. Routes face north south and west, so it's easy to stay cool on hot days and find sun on colder days. Most of the routes contain the high quality fine grained Devil's Head granite. Some of the north facing routes still have a bit of lichen.
To get to The Crag Ranch hike to the firetower, but instead of going up the stairs go south through the grassy valley below the firetower. Enter the forest on the right side of the valley and look for a cairned trail leading down through the trees. The trail forks in about 50 yards leading right to Digital Tower and left to The Crag Ranch. To get to The Crag Ranch trend left as you descend for about 250 yards. Watch for one spot where the trail goes back uphill slightly to the left around a large boulder. The trail ends at the base of a large (250') west facing formation, The Crag Ranch. Also look for the alcove with a north facing wall with 15 sport and trad routes.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
26 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Crag Ranch
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Crag Ranch
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Crag Ranch:
Fenceline 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
North 40 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Meanwhile 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Featured Route For The Crag Ranch
Meanwhile 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Colorado
: South Platte
: ... : The Crag Ranch
This route is located at the edge of the west and south faces of The Crag Ranch where the south face reaches its lowest point. This route is LONG so TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE BEFORE YOU START. It is possible to do the whole thing in one continuous pitch from the ground, but you'll need a bucketload of draws. The part up to the first set of anchors, call it the first pitch if you like, is ten bolts and about 5.11c following granite tufas and laybacks. The next section is the business,...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado
BETA PHOTO: As seen from Digital Tower.
By richard magill
Aug 6, 2002
Finding this place could be a trick. Don't give up if you lose the trail. Instead, go to the base of Digital Tower (the obvious red tower as seen from the fire tower) and look across the valley to the stone on the other side. Look for a shady north-facing wall that appears huecoed and overhanging, and is tucked into an alcove. Then just bushwhack that direction until you get there (10 minutes).
Or better yet, look for shady looking climber types who can point you in the correct direction.The trail has seen so little traffic that it is very faint, but once you know the way it isn't bad.
There are a whole bunch of great lines - it is worth the exploratory trip.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 13, 2008
As of now, the trail seems to get a fair amount of use and is pretty well marked with cairns. You don't have to bushwhack much.