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The Crack's On Top 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 922
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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This is a better route than Enchanted Porkfist (IMHO) and no where near as much traffic. That being said, I must also say that Enchanted Porkfist is a superb route as well.

To find this route, hike into the Dark Side Canyon, and make your way to the Question of Balance Pinnacle. Just to the right of the Pinnacle lies a pair of routes on beautiful, black rock. The left route of these is TCOT.

Gingerly creep your way up the face on thin technical holds. It is fairly sustained. At the top, you will run into a crack that is a bit awkward. You might find this kind of hairy if you don't bring a small cam or two. The last 15 feet (for me anyway) was a bit harder than it looked. Have fun!!


[7] bolts and anchors. You might want to bring a small cam or two (#0.5 Camalot or so) for the final crack to the anchors.

Comments on The Crack's On Top Add Comment
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By slim
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Good climbing but poorly bolted.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2013

Have a 0.5 purple Camalot or a yellow Alien/yellow Metolius for the top.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Aug 10, 2014

This route packs a lot of variety for a slab. Maybe not more fun than Porkfist but certainly more engaging.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Aug 18, 2014

There are now 7 bolts on this climb. A bolt was added at the bottom. However, one still might want a small cam if a bit of runout makes you uneasy at the top.
By Julia
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is a really great climb. The top crux has a very tricky crimp with poor feet to an amazing move on a pocket.

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