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Outside Traverse S 

The Crackhouse 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Dean Potter
Page Views: 7,229
Submitted By: JNE on Apr 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Michelle working her way through it

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Start in the Birth Canal and climb through fifty plus more feet of fists, twists, hands, and tight hands as you wind through a tunnel like cave. Next bust through a big hands dihedral where the crack goes vertical for a few feet, followed by ten or more feet of splitter tight hands that lead to an exciting finish. The Birth Canal is one crux and the end is a second crux, but endurance over the distance is the true challenge here. No individual section is any harder than 12- or so. This is without a doubt one of the finest cracks anywhere. It is especially appealing to me because it splits the cave it is in through it's proudest aspect.

There are many other variations starting at the various cracks and going to either side of the cave, including the one that traverses the jugs into the crack. This version is the one generally referred to as The Full Crackhouse.


Drive down the Gemini Bridges Road. The Crackhouse will be right off the road a little before Gemini Bridges if you are coming from 191, and a little after if coming from 313.


At least one big pad for the lip is quite comforting. Even though the landing was flattened out significantly, there is still about a five foot drop off you could land half on and half off, so a spotter or two is helpful as well. The crack itself varies from five or so feet off the ground all the way up to about ten feet off the ground, so a spotter throughout the problem can be quite nice.

Photos of The Crackhouse Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Jackson cruisin' the mid-section
Greg Jackson cruisin' the mid-section
Rock Climbing Photo: Spiderman working the moves early in problem.
Spiderman working the moves early in problem.
Rock Climbing Photo: Batman finishing the exit moves.
Batman finishing the exit moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Crackhouse
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug working Crackhouse
Doug working Crackhouse

Comments on The Crackhouse Add Comment
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By ljh
Jan 25, 2011

pretty sure FA starting form "the birth canal" was Moab born n bred Tait Rees.
Dean did it later, starting from the face holds right of the cave as you face it.
Steph Davis has the only (to my knowledge) female ascent of the whole rig.
By Bernie LaForest
May 20, 2011

ljh, Dean had the first, then Tait and I went to spot him for Eric's master of Stone #?. I did the second and Tait got the third that day.
By BighornAdams Adams
May 27, 2011

It was Masters of Stone 5.
By chris schulte
Nov 7, 2011

this climb has nothing to do with v7 whatsoever. :D
By ljh
Apr 23, 2014

What he (Schulte) said. ;)
By A-W
Nov 30, 2015

Totally bitchin!!!

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