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Beaver Street Wall
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Bolt Route TR 
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Crack, The T,TR 
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The Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,408
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Climb the crack up the main wall of the area. Interesting crux is in the horizontal portion on the lower section of the climb.


friends and nuts up to 2 1/2".bring a few 3' slings for a toprope.

Photos of The Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: fun.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rocking the Crack. Glassy as all getup!
Rocking the Crack. Glassy as all getup!
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing Beaver st. wall.
climbing Beaver st. wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crack
The Crack

Comments on The Crack Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 31, 2002

The main crack at Beaver street is rated at 5.9 not 5.10b. Having climbed it several times and seen 5.9 climbers make it up (with a fall or two), I think the 5.9 rating is about right on.
By Victor K
From: Denver, CO
Jul 15, 2003

The book "Bay Area Rock" lists this at 5.9. I'd have to agree. Good footwork eases the rating. It's a delightful route! Past the crux, there is a section so glassy that you can check your teeth for poppy seeds. While the top section eases up a lot, the view is great.
By damian
Mar 12, 2004

I freed this crack last month and found it not to be that fun. The face of the rock is extremely polished and thus slippery. Next I aided it and I thought it was great aid practice. A2 I guess.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 16, 2006

I just climbed this route today and its given a 5.10a rating in "Rock Climbing the Bay Area" and is a great little climb. First time up, a beginner like me had to use my arms a lot but was able to do it no problem and relaxed second time. Lots of fun and interesting rock.
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 8, 2008

Eases the rating? What do you mean? With good footwork it felt like 5.8? To me it just felt like 5.9 for a move or two.
By Steve R.
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 12, 2009

Admittedly I was leading above my grade but I wished for some #00 cams. Don't think I used anything above a Red (#4) TCU. Not too shabby for being in the middle of the City. Good stuff
By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

I think there might be some confusion between this route and Crack Direct. In the Bay Area climbing book, Crack Direct is rated at 5.9, while this route, The Crack, is listed at 5.10a. Both of these difficulty ratings seem reasonable to me.

Loose at the top. Have your belay partner stand back a few feet.

Lead is possible (bring the small stuff) but I wouldn't recommended it.
By Jason Parks
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'd venture to say that the Crack is along the lines of 5.8/5.9. I got up it fairly easily (and I climb the 5.8/5.9 range). I think people bump it up to 5.10 due to the lack of good footwork, which is a key to this climb with the minute footholds. The handholds were good throughout the whole climb. The Mirror gets a bit tricky, and by tricky I mean slick (Think Data in The Goonies, "Slick Shoes").

Give the shoes a good brushing/rub down.

Don't know if I would recommend the lead, but if you rock it, well done good sir, or ma'am for that matter.
By Christine Spang
Aug 7, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Led this yesterday. I placed the following gear: #5 and #6 BD micro stoppers, blue, green, and yellow aliens on the traverse, a couple small BD stoppers, a silver peenut (#5 I think), green C4 to top out. There's a spot for something big, like a #3 C4, about 3/4 of the way up, but I didn't have anything above a 2 with me so I didn't place anything there.

Offset micro stoppers would have been better for the first two nut placements, which I thought were okay but not well-set with the regular BD micro stoppers I used.

If the rock were granite, I wouldn't give this an R rating—it takes gear for sure. You can sew it up pretty good once you get to the traverse and really limit the fall length... but how well the slickenside holds an impact, I have no idea.

Highly recommend dropping the chains over the top and going up a bit right in order to clip them before topping out. The topout jug looks like it's held together with mud.
By Seldom Still
From: San Francisco,ca
Jun 18, 2016

daniel c has it right, i think. This route definitely has a 5.10 crux. The other options to the the right are easier and more traveled.

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