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Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag
Routes Sorted
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Californication S 
Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) S 
Dexter S 
Erika S 
Fire and Rain S 
Firestarter S 
Friends S 
Full Respect S 
Hustle T 
Lichenthrope aka Good Clean Fun T,TR 
Lightning Strike S 
Loyalty S 
Nurse Jackie S 
Quick Silver S 
Rain Check S 
Rain Delay S 
Respect T 
Reunion S 
Side Dish T 
Smallville S 
Spooked S 
Summer Nights S 
Thunderhead S 
Weeds S 

Crack Where the Sun Don't Shine (retrobolted as Stroke of Luck) 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Leo Paik, Eric Chrisman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,470
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 1, 2001

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  • Description 

    This was originally done as a traditionally protected climb without any bolts for years, if not decades.

    You start where the climber's eye says there may be a natural line connecting cracks. The original protection was small cams (Aliens). You aim for the corner/crack above.

    Sadly, this was retrobolted in 2009 with 4 bolts. Some traverse right to join Lightning Strike at its sixth bolt. Now ~10 bolts are easily clippable from the first 60 feet of this line. Sadly, there are 3 bolts before where you would get your first piece of protection. This was an established trad line called The Crack Where Sun Don't Shine.

    Protection 

    Pro to #4 Camalot, lightly protected. Now, it's overly retrobolted.


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