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The Crack House

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gargoyle Gardens T 
Jug-A-Lug S 
Mountain Mahogany T 
No is a Four Letter Word (aka Ms. Alleneus) T 
No Is Hard To Say T 
Snafu  T 
Stub-a-Chub S 

The Crack House Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 4,257
Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 20, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Panorama of Crack House

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Crack House is a highly featured wall that faces NW off the north tip of Castle Rock. It has one sport route, Jug-a-Lug, and a number of named and identified crack lines. In addition to multiple close interconnecting crack lines covering the wall, it also has many face holds and horns. The potential for different gear-led lines/variations besides these named routes is quite huge. Identifying specific lines can be difficult however because of all the possible variations. Shade until early afternoon.

Getting There 

Approach the area from any of the trails on the east side, heading to the farthest north tip of Castle Rock. The Crack House is just around the corner to the west and faces toward the NW and Poultry Pillar. An alternative approach can reach The Crack House from the west via the notch from Hostess Gully (the west-side gully between the Main Castle Rock and the West Buttress.

Climbing Season

For the Castle Rock area.

Weather station 14.2 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Crack House

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Crack House:
Mountain Mahogany   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Jug-A-Lug   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Stub-a-Chub   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Crack House

Featured Route For The Crack House
Rock Climbing Photo: Notice the nice vertical features that make for ex...

Gargoyle Gardens 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  ID : Castle Rocks : ... : The Crack House
Climb up the vertical features and than traverse left when you are 20ft or so underneath the anchors. Lots of awesome feet that allow you to either find protection or rest. An alright climb to get warmed up for The Crack House....[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Comments on The Crack House Add Comment
Show which comments
By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
May 24, 2013
S.N.A.F.U. Video
By Joshua Benjamin
From: Nampa, Idaho
May 23, 2016
There are way more trad routes than what's listed here on MP. The Bingham guidebook has about 10 lines listed. When I climbed I didn't have a clue which route I was on, but it didn't really matter because they all go at about the same grade (5.7ish). This is a great area for someone getting into trad climbing.