REI Community
7. The Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beginners Direct T 
Beginners Easy Variation T 
Beginners Route T 
Black Jade T 
Booklet, The T 
Cormier-Magness Indirect, The T 
Cormier-Magness Route, The T 
Dark Horse T 
Dike Route, The T 
Fingertip Trip T 
Girdle Traverse of Whitehorse Ledge T 
Interloper  T 
Man O War T 
Miner-Joseph-King Dike (aka Dike route left start), The T 
Ninth Wave, The T 
Pathfinder T 
Sea of Holes T 
Slabs Direct T 
Sliding Board T 
Slipshod T 
South Buttress of Wankers Wall T 
Standard Route T 
Stop if you Dare T 
Tidal Wave T,S 
Waiting for Comeau T 
Wave Bye Bye T 
Wave Length T 
Wedge T 
White Wilderness T 
White Zone, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Cormier-Magness Indirect 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 380'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FRA: Magness and McCoy, 6/15
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,293
Submitted By: chris magness on Jun 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
drilling the first pitch, rock is much cleaner tha...

Description 

A two pitch variation to The Cormier-Magness.

Climb CM's first five pitches. After the Northwest Passage, walk climber's right 20' and reset the belay in a low horizontal.

Pitch 1, Gritty McDuff, 5.7
Step up and right from the belay and follow a slab straight up passing two bolts before joining the Low Beer Light pitch (approx 50'). The climbing eases as you approach the no-fall zone. A little spicy toward the top of the slab on mellow terrain. 180'

Pitch 2, The Chaser, 5.10
From Low Beer Light's tree, step down a few feet and right. Straight up again over an obvious bulge. Pass two bolts before joining the Platinum Slab (approx 30'). A smidge stiffer than Interloper's first pitch. 190'

Rock quality on both pitches is superb as is the climbing. I didn't scrub at all; traffic will clean things up. If the variations were longer and more independent, the star quality would be higher.

As per usual: free and on lead.

A long draw on the first bolt of each pitch should help with drag.

Protection 

draws and a .4/.5 for a horizontal entering the first pitch (extend with 4' sling)


Comments on The Cormier-Magness Indirect Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 16, 2015

Nice job mags...maybe some other stuff still on the slabs ????
By chris magness
Jun 16, 2015

Thanks man! I've been eyeing these pitches for awhile. Short but really good.

The right side is pretty well tapped now; I know of a little more potential... and not all slabby stuff!
By xcrag-corex
Jun 21, 2015

So I'm gathering the second pitch goes up the steep swell... The few times I climbed the original line I looked over at it and thought that that would be fun... Can't wait to give it a go !
By chris magness
Jun 23, 2015

Yep, second pitch is the steep swell. I wanted it to go with one bolt, but it turned out to be a tad bit strenuous.. I had to come back down for my rock shoes after drilling the second bolt!
By Jorden Kass
Jul 20, 2015

There is what appears to be a route to the left of the buttress of "the open book". It is covered with moss, but I was able to lead it (on accident) to the headwall before having to retreat while trying to do Cormier-Magness. The first section is very doable, but it quickly gets harder.
By caesar.salad
From: earth
Sep 16, 2015

Almost did the same thing today, Jordan. Instead, I went the correct way (right) and found it to be covered in wet, slippery moss. I am bringing a scrub brush next time and clearing a path.
By chris magness
Nov 15, 2015

I've been informed from several reliable sources that the Gritty McDuff pitch isn't 5.6. Hard to tell sometimes.. Modified the grade (it'll never get 5.8!!!).
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 15, 2015

F'm downgrade it to 5.5+
By chris magness
Nov 16, 2015

I should! Felt easy to me the first go, and I was bolting in approach shoes. Perhaps my friends are just sallies?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About