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The Coop
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Chicken Cordon Bulge T 
Coop du jour S 
Coop Scoop, The T 
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Going Out Of Chicken Sale T 
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The Coop Scoop 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and Brian Burgess
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: arjunmh on Dec 6, 2015

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Brian rapping the route

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Description 

Scramble through a tree onto a ledge and peer up into a double crack system leading through some scary looking rock to the top of a spire. Climb moderate crack and face stuff being careful not to pull anything loose off. Place pro in both cracks to protect, but beware of loose stuff. We knocked as much as possible off, but will have to do more when we return. The wide section looks daunting, but protects well with a #4 and #3 placed in the back. My #4 was walked for about 10-15 ft during the FA as I only had one. I'm sure a #5 or 6 would be welcome if you've carried one in for "Throatchoker -- we didn't). Good face holds help get you through the wide crack. Continue past the first ledge to the top of the spire. Currently you can single line rap off webbing and a quick link (early Dec. '15), which I'll replace with proper LDE style anchors as soon as I return.

Location 

Face the main Coop climbs (Going out of Chicken Sale, etc.) and then turn around. It's the double crack leading up an isolated spire just about 20-30 ft upslope of the Coop spire -- see overview photo.

Protection 

Doubles from 0.5 to #4 camalot, though a single #4 was walked during the FA and I'm sure a #5 would be welcome for some.


Photos of The Coop Scoop Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shmotem Pole's improbable balance and elegant beau...
Shmotem Pole's improbable balance and elegant beau...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top to the base of the Coop
Looking down from the top to the base of the Coop
Rock Climbing Photo: Over the top of the Coop to the west side
Over the top of the Coop to the west side
Rock Climbing Photo: Up the double crack system in the shade.
Up the double crack system in the shade.

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