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10 - The Cookie Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock T,TR 
America's Cup T 
Anathema T 
Beverly's Tower T 
Butterballs T 
Butterfingers T 
Catchy T 
Catchy Corner T 
Chicken Delight TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cookie Left Side T 
Cookie Monster S 
Cookie-Center, The T 
Cookie-Right, The T 
Crack-a-Go-Go T 
Dynamite Crack 
Elevator Shaft, The T 
Enema, The T 
Enigma, The T 
Hardd T 
Jardine's Hand T 
Meat Grinder T 
Outer Limits T 
Pringles S 
Red Zinger T 
Renegade, The T 
Stigma, The T 
Twilight Zone T 
Twinkie T 
Vendetta T 
Waverly Wafer T 
Wheat Thin T 

10 - The Cookie Cliff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.7184, -119.7187 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 62,791
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 23, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

40°
Monday

56° | 40°
Tuesday

60° | 41°
Wednesday

63° | 40°
Thursday

64° | 38°
Friday

61° | 38°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Merced in the spring. Just below The Cookie Cliff.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Cookie is a classic Yosemite crack area. It contains some of the world's best crack climbs.
"Outer Limits", "Meat Grinder", "Red Zinger", "Butterfingers", "Wheat Thin", "Waverly Wafer" and "Crack-A-Go-Go" are a few of the classics found in this area.

Getting There 

This cliff is about 1/2 mile down the canyon from the Cascade Creek bridge.
Park in a pullout on the river side of the road. The approach is obvious.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.1 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 10 - The Cookie Cliff:
Beverly's Tower   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Vendetta   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 5 pitches, 350'   
Meat Grinder   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Outer Limits   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Wheat Thin   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Waverly Wafer   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Catchy   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Twilight Zone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Jardine's Hand   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 115'   
Butterfingers   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Catchy Corner   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Hardd   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
The Enema   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Aftershock   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Crack-a-Go-Go   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Butterballs   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Red Zinger   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Cookie Monster   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport   
America's Cup   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
The Renegade   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 10 - The Cookie Cliff

Featured Route For 10 - The Cookie Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: It's just so nice.

Wheat Thin 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  California : Yosemite National Park : ... : 10 - The Cookie Cliff
This route is a fun pitch that starts on the right side of the ledge gained after climbing Beverly's Tower. Start up toward the obvious large flake, the technical crux comes before reaching the bolts, so bring some small cams for the initial moves, which work out better than you think. Gain the huge flake and lieback your way to the top. The book calls this "very airy", and I would agree wholeheartedly. Expect some runouts b\w bolts. Finish with a traverse to the bolted anchors above Butterbal...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of 10 - The Cookie Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A selection of some of the routes at one of Americ...
BETA PHOTO: A selection of some of the routes at one of Americ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Werner Braun on "Meat Grinder". Photo by...
Werner Braun on "Meat Grinder". Photo by...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Schultz on the "Meat Grinder Arete"...
Dave Schultz on the "Meat Grinder Arete"...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cookie cliff
The Cookie cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: John Bachar, 1985.
John Bachar, 1985.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the cookie
Looking at the cookie
Rock Climbing Photo: The Cookie from the road
The Cookie from the road
Rock Climbing Photo: Merced River below the Cookie and Elephant Rock. P...
Merced River below the Cookie and Elephant Rock. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Poison Oak is very common in the Lower Merced Cany...
BETA PHOTO: Poison Oak is very common in the Lower Merced Cany...

Comments on 10 - The Cookie Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Feb 23, 2010
They say Hawaii is a winter wonderland. I don't think they have ever been to the Cookie!
By Stefano Prezioso
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2012
If someone has all the relevant information, adding Stigma (the 5.13 seam where the approach trail meets the wall) would be great. I just aided it today for practice and was surprised to see that it was missing from MP. I just don't know all the information to do a good job of adding the route, otherwise I would myself.

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