The Convent Rock Climbing
Scoping new lines from the ground
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The northernmost member of the set of spires that runs south past Sister Superior and the Rectory to Castleton. This massive mesa, bigger than the Rectory, hosts a handful of seldom climbed, adventurous routes and a beautiful, pristine summit. As of this writing, all known routes are on its west face. As far as routes go, The Value of Audacity is reputed to be the hardest and best, Hallelujah Chimney (1970's 5.10) sports a 100' fist crack and a 200' chimney while Renate Goes to 11 is characterized by moderate, occasionally interesting climbing on rock that is loose more often than not.
Approach: drive up the dirt road as for Sister Superior and park along the road when below Hallelujah Chimney (you'll have just passed the North end of Parriot mesa and Crooked Arrow Spire on your right) then follow talus steeply upwards for 1100' and about 45 minutes.
There are rappel anchors on Hallelujah Chimney: 100', 190', 120'.
Climbing Season For the Castle Valley area.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Convent
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Convent
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Convent:
Featured Route For The Convent
Buddha's Delight 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Utah
: Moab Area
: ... : The Convent
Buddha's Delight is among the best climbs I have ever done. It is a stunning line, particularly pitch three, the "Buddha's Belly" pitch. There are several pitches on this climb longer than 35 meters, along with an overhanging pitch, so the best decent is Choir Boyz. If you plan to project it, bring a tag line so you can make it back to the anchors on pitches 3 and 4.The climb starts on the looker's right ...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
BETA PHOTO: Route Beta with Buddha's Delight shown on righ...
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Convent
The Convent mesa, as seen from the SW.
By david goldstein
Apr 29, 2003
Hallelujah Chimney is more commonly known as Salvation Chimney. It's the Harvey Carter route from the 60's.
By chris Kalous
Feb 25, 2008
Salvation Chimney: in the mid 90s, I tried this rig as the end of an enchainment of the ridge. On the first pitch, I was pulling out ring angles with my fingers. We bailed off of the second pitch- deciding that this absolutely horrible climb was ruining a day of otherwise amazing climbing. The chimney was caked with filth. One of the worst routes I've "almost" climbed in the desert.
By Scott McLeod
May 27, 2011
Decent off of the convent:
From the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent, walk South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.