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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The S 
Devil, The S 
Earth Angel S 
Fapanese Direct S 
Fool, The S 
Goat F***er S 
Hanged Man, The S 
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The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness) 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Roger Molina, M. Samet, R. Garibotti
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, autumn
Page Views: 3,655
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Mar 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Starting the crux.

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  • Description 

    This is the route between the Fapanese Direct and The Devil, up the right margin of the Earth Angel headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of The Devil, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with The Devil), then trends left into the hanging corner. Originally, there was a crux getting around the arete (going left), but the more logical sequence goes right up the nice laybacks in the corner then moves back left higher at your convenience. Mark Rolofson was nice enough to put the hanger back on the original bolt I'd drilled out right, so that you can go either way through this section.

    Above the crux, you can stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block, or bear-hug along the right arete. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, which is probably much cleaner now than it was in 2007.

    Location 

    This is ten feet left of The Devil, Tarot Wall.

    Protection 

    Eight or 9 bolts to double-bolt anchors.


    Photos of The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top.
    Nearing the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Closing in on the anchor!  Photo by Taylor Roy.
    Closing in on the anchor! Photo by Taylor Roy.

    Comments on The Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    May 4, 2008

    Matt, thanks for posting the info on these two rtes. I was up @ Avalon today and was wondering what the new lines were. This one in particular looks really nice. Thanks for your time and effort to put them up.
    BA
    By Joe Collins
    May 8, 2011
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    The section by the 3rd/4th bolts is unquestionably the crux, unless people are climbing the crack 4 feet to the right on the Devil. Solid 5.12 when you stay on the bolt line here. The description above calls the arete up high the crux, whereas I thought that part was only 11+/12-.
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Jun 19, 2012

    The fierce 11+ laybacking up top--regardless of how you take it, left or right---is indeed a spank-a-thon.

    But mostly because you've spent yourself trying to get established under that hanging arete after you pulled the 11- roof. That 4th to 5th bolt traverse is certainly the crux.

    And don't bother TRing this beaut'. The falls are casual swinging affairs. (I would know--took many of them), and once you hit the jug WAY up 'n' left, business hours are over and it's all good, so long as you brought extra arms.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 4, 2012

    I guess I can't give myself the true onsight, since I climbed more of the arete on the top as opposed to the lieback crack which is apparently what was intended. The bottom climbing was delicate, and pulling the roof was pretty stout. Overall, a good route, not as good as its neighbors The Devil or Fapanese Direct. The top is definitely a bit contrived given that you can stay slightly right on the arete and make the whole upper half feel pretty casual. Good route though and worth getting on....
    By Peter J. Beyel
    From: Glenwood Springs
    Aug 1, 2013
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

    Wonderful line. Agree with the above posters that the traverse at bolt 5 is the crux.

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