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(d) Northwest Recess
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Consolation Direct, The T 
Consolation, The T 
Constellation T 
Edgehogs T 
Error, The T 
Farewell Horizontal T,S 
Gulp, The T 
Incision, The T 
Long Climb, The T 
Magical Mystery Tour T 
Sahara Terror T 
Snakes on Everything T 
Souvenir, The T 
Special K S,TR 
Swallow, The T 
Whodunit T 
Wong Climb T 

The Consolation Direct 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,179
Submitted By: Andreas Pfander on Jun 11, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Joan coming over the roof.

Description 

This route follows the first four pitches of The Consolation, but instead of joining either Who-dunit or The Long Climb it continues up a flaring crack and over a roof.
Pitch 1-4: The Consolation, belay at a sloping ledge with a good sized tree.
Pitch 5: At the right end of the ledge climb up a short crack, then follow a crack with broken ledges up and left to the bottom of a slightly flaring crack. You will also be able to see the roof. Belay here.
Pitch 6: Climb the crack and the roof and belay above the roof.
Pitch 7: Easier climbing to the top.

Location 

This route follows the crack between Who-dunit and The Long Climb to the top.

Protection 

small to 3 inches, standard rack


Photos of The Consolation Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof or direct finish just above.
BETA PHOTO: The roof or direct finish just above.

Comments on The Consolation Direct Add Comment
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By escherch
From: San Diego
Jul 27, 2016

Great finish to the consolation. The "belay at the sloping ledge" is the same sloping ledge where The Consolation joins Whodunit. Belay at the right side of this ledge for the direct finish.
By Tradiban
Aug 7, 2016

Did this in 4 pitches with a 70m, maybe simuled 15ft on the last pitch. Basically go straight up through regular Consolation then just slightly angle left, then back right to a short deep crack. Just maybe 5.9+ not in the 10s I think.

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