The Compound Rock Climbing
The Compound is a steep, North facing crag with about 20 routes between 5.11 and 5.14.
Since the cave has a large shelf at half height most of the routes stop at about 60 feet. The routes are the perfect middle ground between the intensely bouldery stuff found in Box Canyon, and the mega pumpy endurance fests at the Pipe Dream.
Like most areas at Maple, this area is still cleaning up, so don't stand below people when they are climbing.
If you don't have a 4 wheel drive car, park at the top of the groomed Canyon Road near the Right Fork trail and continue up the semi-steep, rough Canyon Road another 15 minutes until you reach a sharp left and then a sharp right turn. After the right turn you will see an obvious trail on your left that leads up a dirt slope. Follow this trail for 5 minutes to the base of the Compound. If you have a 4 wheel drive car, you can drive all the way to the small trail that cuts off the main road.
This road has very little shade. So be ready to suffer in the sun if you visit in the Summer.
Climbing Season For the Maple Canyon Road area.
Weather station 5.5 miles from here
21 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Compound
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Compound
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Compound:
Gun Tower 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
911 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
3-2-1 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For The Compound
Special Forces 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Utah
: Maple Canyon
: ... : The Compound
This is a really fun route with a hard clip and an intense roof crux to a very pumpy headwall.Start with some steep straight forward 5.11 climbing to a nice jug at 20 feet. Make a tough clip, and muscle through a very steep roof crux on underclings and sidepulls to a good rail at the lip of the roof. A few strangely hard pulls on some awkward holds gets you to another rest. Hold it together on the extended final crux and then follow good holds to the anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
By Spencer Anderson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 17, 2012
Guide book doesn't mention it but needing 4WD or AWD is no joke. The road is way too lose.
By SM Ryan
Aug 27, 2012
#6 on the topo link is called Death from Above. It climbs straight up and links into Nine-11 and finishes on those anchors.Neptune Spear was bolted in 2011 and is immediately left of Death from above.
Neptune spear finishes on Gun Tower. For fun, you can take Neptune Spear & finish on Nine-11.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 4, 2014
Just a heads up..... Of course it is any climber's responsibility to check out fixed hardware if they are using it. We removed two very sharp half worn through fixed draws off of first bolts today. Take a look at what you are climbing on before you trust it with your life. The crag in general could use an upgrade if fixed gear is going to be the norm.