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(t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Climb, The S,TR 
First Kiss S 
French Kiss S 
Groove Thang S 

The Climb 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emdse, 3/31/2002
Page Views: 671
Submitted By: Harrison on Aug 28, 2014

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At the base of the second pitch, in the groove

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The best route on the wall and maybe one of the ten best at Smith Rock hides in the astounding water groove on the second pitch. You can try your luck on the rotten rock on the first pitch but most just aid it. Second pitch provides a unique rap, almost cave like. Great line of bolts runs past stems and a bulge crux(10d) to an overhang with great jugs and position, pull around to the anchors. Pitch three traverses left and up to a set of anchors( you can follow the bolt line at these anchors for Dreams that I Carry 10a, two pitches you end on the same anchors as the climb and first kiss) continue up to the right to another set of anchors on top of a block. Last pitch is the same as last pitch of first kiss. Note, watch the loose block at the top anchors!

Location 

Kiss of the Lepers Area, Smith Rock
Start is to the left of First Kiss about 60 yards under the crappy roof
You can walk off, or better yet rap into the groove, its astounding!
The monkey is to your right, you can't miss it

Protection 

P1:9
P2:10
P3:9
P4:14


Photos of The Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Climb, wonderful position
BETA PHOTO: The Climb, wonderful position
Rock Climbing Photo: Cool
Cool
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling out of the cave on P2
Pulling out of the cave on P2
Rock Climbing Photo: the groove
the groove
Rock Climbing Photo: Heather at the top of the first pitch
Heather at the top of the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of pitch 2
Bottom of pitch 2

Comments on The Climb Add Comment
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By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Oct 4, 2016

The groove pitch is awesome and one of a kind! The first pitch is absolute garbage, with mandatory free moves on some of the worst rock I've seen at Smith before you can aid the last 4 or so bolts. It is easy to rap down to the bottom of the water groove with a 70m rope from the top of First Kiss and climb the amazing second pitch - maybe the best way to experience The Climb.