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The best route on the wall and maybe one of the ten best at Smith Rock hides in the astounding water groove on the second pitch. You can try your luck on the rotten rock on the first pitch but most just aid it. Second pitch provides a unique rap, almost cave like. Great line of bolts runs past stems and a bulge crux(10d) to an overhang with great jugs and position, pull around to the anchors. Pitch three traverses left and up to a set of anchors( you can follow the bolt line at these anchors for Dreams that I Carry 10a, two pitches you end on the same anchors as the climb and first kiss) continue up to the right to another set of anchors on top of a block. Last pitch is the same as last pitch of first kiss. Note, watch the loose block at the top anchors!
Kiss of the Lepers Area, Smith Rock
Start is to the left of First Kiss about 60 yards under the crappy roof
You can walk off, or better yet rap into the groove, its astounding!
The monkey is to your right, you can't miss it
From: Redmond, OR
Oct 4, 2016
The groove pitch is awesome and one of a kind! The first pitch is absolute garbage, with mandatory free moves on some of the worst rock I've seen at Smith before you can aid the last 4 or so bolts. It is easy to rap down to the bottom of the water groove with a 70m rope from the top of First Kiss and climb the amazing second pitch - maybe the best way to experience The Climb.