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> Upper Gully
The Climb Warp
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 8
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Routes in Upper Gully
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Climb Warp, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight Deck S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Promenade S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Riff Raff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rocky Horror S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sideshow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sweet Transcendsite S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Don Cann, Andre Lechner, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 871 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew D on Sep 11, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
A nice long route up a large buttress. Goes through twelve bolts, staying pretty vertical until around the seventh bolt.
Depending on skill level there are two cruxes, the first being right after the seventh bolt, and the second being higher up on some pumpy crimp moves for the last couple bolts. The whole route is at a gentle overhang as well, so it can get pumpy, but it is punctuated with a few good rest jugs/horns along the way.
Make sure to stay left of the bolts as you get higher up. It is very tempting to traverse right to some big chalked up holds. Do not. You will find large wobbly blocks waiting to be dislodged and hit someone below, followed by a pile of sharp, flaky choss. Stay under or left of the bolt line and you will be fine.
Depending on skill level there are two cruxes, the first being right after the seventh bolt, and the second being higher up on some pumpy crimp moves for the last couple bolts. The whole route is at a gentle overhang as well, so it can get pumpy, but it is punctuated with a few good rest jugs/horns along the way.
Make sure to stay left of the bolts as you get higher up. It is very tempting to traverse right to some big chalked up holds. Do not. You will find large wobbly blocks waiting to be dislodged and hit someone below, followed by a pile of sharp, flaky choss. Stay under or left of the bolt line and you will be fine.
Location
When you get to the Marble Wall for the first time, you'll see there's a platform made out of stacked logs and some wooden scaffolding to the right of Attachment Theory and Attachment Issues. There should be a sign up here that points to the starting bolt of The Climb Warp. It is across from the wall that has Rocky Horror (5.10b).
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