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Lower Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cleft, The T,TR 
Cracker Jack T,TR 
Flutterby TR 
Free and Easy T,TR 
Half and Half T,TR 
Happy Slab TR 
Hidden Magic TR 
Milk Run T,TR 
No Reverse Traverse T 
Old Tree T,TR 
Pipe Cleaner T,TR 
Pudding Face TR 
Shortcake TR 
Toy Surprise TR 
Your Lead TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Cleft 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 538
Submitted By: B-Mkll Mackall on Aug 3, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Main Wall.

Description 

This is a good easy crack climb on the far right side of the Lower Walls.

Location 

It is the continuous splitter finger crack on the far right side of the Lower Walls about 10 feet right of Cracker Jack. You can't miss it!

Protection 

Good trad gear the whole way up: cams to 0.75, standard rack of nuts. TR on a double-trunk oak at the top.


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By B-Mkll Mackall
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 3, 2013

This was the site of my first trad lead and IMO this is a WAY better first lead than Cracker Jack. Good stances, golden nut placements for literally the entirety of the crack, and at least 4 or 5 good (for puddingstone) cam placements along its short length. Bring the small rack and sew it up. Size 1-5 nuts and size .4-.75 cams will benefit you here. Leave everything bigger at home.
By S. Neoh
Aug 3, 2013

Ha ha, thanks for writing this up and jogging my memory. I learned to place nuts and cams on this route, on TR, but never led it. Perhaps I should just do it 20 some years later!
So, yes, a great little route to get started on.

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