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The Cleft is the long, huge, left-facing dihedral near the middle of the cliff. It begins as a groove and becomes a chimney as the open book gets wider. On Sept. 2, 2010, I led the first pitch up to a fixed pin and old sling in the chimney, about 110 feet up. Ross Swanson led the crux pitch, moving around an awkward bulge where the chimney constricts, just above the belay. Finish up an easy right-facing dihedral.
Getting down involved a long scramble east, then down slabs above the southeast side of Gem Lake.