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East Face - Upper
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cleft, The 
Damsel in Distress 
East Face Slab 
East Face Slab Right 
Read Between The Lines T 
Rear Window 
Upper Hitchcock Gully T 

The Cleft 


Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 210'
Original: WI2+ [details]
Page Views: 3,604
Submitted By: Paul Rago on Jan 14, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Cleft chockstone crux in earlyish season.


A very unique geological feature, this route ascends a deep slot with several easy-moderate ice bulges for a full 60m. Climb in 1-2 pitches.

The climbing isn't really anything special but the route absolutely is for the cool slot.

Makes for a nice end of the day climb after doing other area climbs.


Located climber's right of East Face Slab Right about 100m.

Climb Left Hand Monkey Wrench or lower Hitchcock Gully and traverse right under East Face Right and continue thru the woods under the cliff band until you see a very deep gash in the cliff.

Either do a full-length rap (60m just makes it, 70m better) or head straight up into the woods on a climber's path* to intersect the Mt. Willard Trail: take a left to the summit and enjoy the views, or a right down the easy Trail to be back at your car in ~20 minutes.

  • Should you be unfortunate enough to be the first (or first after a big snowfall) to break trail on this route the following may be of help: Exit climber's left from the Cleft, go a few feet left, then up for 40-50 ft and keep an eye for orange blazes (only visible going uphill) and occasional orange tape. The first 1/3 of the path generally goes up-and-left, then swings around to the right about 1/2 way and then levels off. In general, if you are faced with totally impenetrable brush, you are off route; the path really isn't that bad and lots of folk have been using it. About 5-10 min to the Mt Willard Trail.


Screws; the top had slings and rings high in a tree on the right.

Photos of The Cleft Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the crux bulge midway up the cleft, Chinos...
Leading the crux bulge midway up the cleft, Chinos...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the top of The Cleft, December 12, 2015.
At the top of The Cleft, December 12, 2015.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun climb for my first lead
Fun climb for my first lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux bulge of The Cleft
Crux bulge of The Cleft
Rock Climbing Photo: Lauren following op the Cleft
Lauren following op the Cleft
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the first belay in "The Cle...
Looking down from the first belay in "The Cle...
Rock Climbing Photo: topping out
topping out

Comments on The Cleft Add Comment
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By Michael Lund
Mar 7, 2016

Ice was really nice, with several significant vertical sections, felt more like a 3 than a 2+. Definitely not doable as a single pitch with a 60m rope -- we had to simul up a good 10m to the bottom of the first big bulge in order for the leader to set up an anchor.

Lots of fun.