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The Clan of the Cave Bear 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Bloom/Cosentino 200
Page Views: 422
Submitted By: Ryan Z on May 13, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Pitch 3 Traverse

Description 

P1 - Climb the hands to wide hands to O/W splitter to the base of a chimney. Belay of off small cams and a #5. Fun Pitch! ~100ft (5.10)

P2 - Mantal the loose block, clip the bolt, Do some really fun exposed chimney moves, then work your way up a long chossy corner clipping another bolt at about 60ft. Pass that bolt continuing up until the only obvious climbing is to traverse left. Take a deep breath and fearlessly launch into the traversing choss fest through a 5.9 roof, R/X. Pull the roof and traverse left a short distance until you find a ledge with a poor gear anchor. ~170ft (5.9 R/X)

P3 - Continue to traverse left placing marginal gear until you get to an arete. Pop around the arete and hand traverse left until you can drop into a chimney. Belay off of a tree. ~50 feet (5.7 R)

Only the first pitch gets 2 stars. The 2nd and 3rd pitch are reserved for people with a very strange attraction to dangerous choss.

Location 

This climb begins on the right hand side of the obvious formation 15 - 20 minutes up the Bear Mountain trail. Clan of the Cave Bear takes the right crack.

Decent - Drop into a steep gully left of the belay tree and hike back around to your packs.

Protection 

(1) .3 - #1
(2) #2 - #4
(1) #5
lots of runners
(1) 60m rope


Photos of The Clan of the Cave Bear Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The chimney on P2
The chimney on P2

Comments on The Clan of the Cave Bear Add Comment
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By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
May 19, 2014

Spring of 2012 there was a rap anchor/bolted belay at top of p1... Is that gone? There was a loose death block on p1 until then, but since it fell I seriously think p1 is one of best .10 pitches I've been on in Sedona....
By Ryan Z
May 23, 2014

Jonathan - I did not see bolted anchors anywhere on P1. The only bolts I recall were the ones on P2 shown in the picture I posted. There is still a very, very, large loose block at the base of the chimney that does not inspire confidence in a young mans heart. P1 is great, and then shit hits the fan. Did you top it out?
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 28, 2014

Lord no! We rapped off fat bolts to right at top of P1- I'd be shocked if they been chopped. We looked up, saw death getting ready to greet us, and retreated.
By tcous4 Cousins
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Apr 15, 2015

I hiked Bear Mountain on 4/11/15 and investigated the route on the way down. There were definitely bolted anchors at the top of P1, even had leftover webbing attached from a previous ascent.
By Ryan Z
Apr 15, 2015

Cool! apparently there is a bolted anchor. I must have climbed right by it. I belayed off of cams on a small foot ledge 10 feet below the first bolt on the 2nd pitch.
By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Oct 21, 2016

As of today there are still two bolts and numerous (old) slings 90' up the first pitch of Clan of The Cave Bear. Evidently put there sometime before 2012 (when I first climbed it) to enable one to do the awesome first pitch without the danger of dislodging the rather large tipping, rocking block above it.

A very good, dusty, big hands pitch of 3 and 4 Camelot size. (My thoughts would be 3 - #2s, 3 - #3s, 2 - #4s, and one 5 or 6). Funky moves sideways to anchor off of that fat cam!

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