The Citadel Rock Climbing
The Citadel still sees shade through the afternoon...
This massive rock, with its 400-foot wall, stands at the head of the canyon. The majestic formation is at the end of the worn approach trail, just uphill from Whitetail Rock. This is a great place to climb on a hot day, as all routes lie on the north face. Descent:
One either can descend via rappel down Power Tools
. There are rappel rings on all 4 bolted anchors of Costanoan
. This is much safer than downclimbing off the southeast shoulder.
Pinnacles National Monument, West Side.
Take the well marked climbers trail off of the Balconies Cave Trail, south of Machete Ridge. Follow past Elephant Rock to the base of the Citadel. Approach is about 45 min from the west side parking lot.
Climbing Season For the West Side area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Citadel
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Citadel
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Citadel:
Costanoan 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport, 4 pitches
Power Tools 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For The Citadel
Costanoan 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c California
: Central Coast
: ... : The Citadel
The rock is surprisingly solid and the climb is very well protected for a 4-pitch "5.4" (original rating) sport climb. Any dislodged rocks are likely to bounce down to the right of the route, out of harm's way. The runouts occur on easy terrain and some bolts are ridiculously close together (especially pitch 3). Here are my estimates of each pitch's rating, length, and bolt count: Pitch 1: 5.5 (crux at start), 100'@SE...[more] Browse More Classics in California
By John Buchenauer
Jan 10, 2015
The Young Guide says 2 60's are needed to rap off Citadel. I added rings to an intermediate belay on Power Tools, now only ONE 60 meter rope is needed to go top to bottom. Just be careful scrambling down to the top anchors on Power Tools, it's very mossy and very loose.