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4. The Buttress
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Buttress T,TR 
Chimney, The T 
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Watusi T 
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The Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,263
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up into the chimney of the second pitch fr...


The Chimney is generally done is two short pitches to avoid rope drag along the ledge.

P1. Climb a short, vertical flake with somewhat broken rock. At the top of the flake, climb a right leaning corner past a couple of tricky section to an arete. Follow the arete to a left-leaning ramp above and belay just above the first set of bushes.

P2. Continue up the ramp (very easy) to a nice, short corner with some chimney moves higher up. Climb the corner through the chimney moves and belay at trees on the top of the wall. The fun is over almost as soon as it begins.

To descend, walk off to the right and follow the trail that leads down to the base of the Practice Face.


This is located just before you turn the corner and scramble up the step to the main wall. Look for a vertical, left-facing flake that leads to a small slab.


Standard rack, up to medium cams.

Photos of The Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of The Chimney.
Start of The Chimney.

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By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Nov 12, 2009

Fun route. The climbing in the first pitch is straight forward but a little strenuous for gear placement. I especially enjoyed the chimney in the second pitch.
By AndyGriffin Griffin
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A fun route, better than the blue route. Can be done in 1 pitch if you're careful with your rope.
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Jun 6, 2014

Not a huge fan of the first pitch.... I usually start with the first pitch Outersite.
By DPas
Aug 3, 2015

Great fun! Good for developing a lead head and managing rope drag. Pitch two chimney was soaked (felt harder than 5.6).

  • There is a huge piece of rock that seems to have fallen off this climb or the chossy overhang to the left of it. Rock quality seemed just fine on the route however.

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