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Reggie Dome
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Chief, The T 
Curbside T 
Fender Bender T 
Fresh Squeezed S 
Hairline T 
Handicapped Zone T 
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch S 
Irresponsibility Lessons T 
Meter Maid T 
Mole, The S 
Ninny's Revenge T 
Pop Goes the Weasel TR 
Pops Goes Hawaiian T 
Reggie Zigzags T 
Short Cut T 
Speed Bump S 
Sunny Delight T 
Tender Flakes of Wrath  T 
Thompson's Acne T 
Thomsons Roof T 
What A Drag It Is Getting Old S 

The Chief 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Don and Karen Wilson, March 1986
Page Views: 4,999
Submitted By: Carol on Jan 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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The crux is near the top of this route.


This route starts up the gully several feet right of Ninny's Revenge. The crack runs to the right of another route (Pops Goes Hawaiian) with a single-bolt on the left face of the gully. The Chief is a fun route with good placements for pro and comfy stances for feet.

It is possible to rap from the top of Tender Flakes of Wrath (127 in Vogel's guide) or the route that runs up the center face, about straight up from the pine tree next to the northwest face.


Hexes or large cams for natural anchor would be handy.

Photos of The Chief Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Johnnie entering the "pod", below the cr...
Johnnie entering the "pod", below the cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Lagueux high on The Chief.
Mike Lagueux high on The Chief.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top section
Top section
Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas leading the CHief
Lukas leading the CHief
Rock Climbing Photo: CJ climbing The Chief; a fun 5.5
CJ climbing The Chief; a fun 5.5
Rock Climbing Photo: Me sewing up the Chief
Me sewing up the Chief
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid day in January.
Mid day in January.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Reggie Dome.
BETA PHOTO: View of Reggie Dome.
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul starting the final crack
Paul starting the final crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Group solo of the Chief
Group solo of the Chief
Rock Climbing Photo: "The Chief". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "The Chief". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on The Chief Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 6, 2016
By Drederek
Apr 22, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A good lead for a beginning leader. My wife led it in 03 and I was not very scared at all! Solid at 5.5.
By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 15, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The fun climbing and good rock make this a recommended route for the novice leader. Two stars out of five.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 8, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

great route for the grade. Good begining leader route and fun solo for we unleashed sorts. Took a friend out for his second trad lead and he cruised it. Protects well with almost all types of gear. Good rock, good area, away from crowds, near other good climbs, recommended. Pro for anchos so don't sew it up with your goods needed to bring up your second.
By Gary Schenk
Mar 3, 2008

Yes, a real fun lead.
By Kirk Barrett
Dec 17, 2010

Some one has added 2 belay bolts at the top of this route, despite the presence of ample natural protection opportunities. Why?
By The Gray Tradster
Dec 17, 2010

This has become an increasing problem.

Convenience anchors have now sprouted on Woman's Work is Never Done. and even relatively obscure routes like Dreams of Redrocks.

It particularly makes no sense at all on this one.
By Ester Williams
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2010

The park service actually prefers rap stations versus a walk off because of less impact.
By Vitaliy
Sep 26, 2011

There are two options to top-out: to the right bypassing the "summit" block (easy) and going slightly left on the top of the "summit" block following the crack (one 5.7 move). #3 + #2 C4 for the natural gear anchor.
By Canon
Nov 8, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Great climb for beginners, or for a nice cruise. There are no bolts on top of the route. Building an anchor in the crack took a #2, #3, and #4 Camalot. The climb protects well with anything.
By david doucette
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

best 5.5 in the park, not counting right on of course.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Jan 3, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Easiest J Tree climb for the grade I've been on. Found some lower grade climbs here harder. Excellent rock!
By matt-jensen
From: Hermosa Beach, CA
Jan 13, 2014

The convenience bolt/anchors have been chopped, I agree with the multipple statements about it being a great lead for beginners. You can stitch it up with ample feet and jugs/crack for security. Lots of great movement, not boring for a short climb. Bring a couple 3&4 camalots for the flaring pro at the top.
By Kirsten Martin
From: Lausanne, Switzerland
Jan 20, 2014

Beautiful and aesthetic climb! Great movement, good placements, and one of the more "secure" 5.5's you'll find in J-tree. Solid for the grade by other places standards, easy for a J-tree 5.5.
I had tons of fun on this route!
By Phil Esra
Mar 16, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Crux is near the very top--I'd call it 5.6, maybe easier if you're tall. Protects well. Gear anchor. Pretty fun for the grade.
By Michelle Kemmer
From: Calabasas, CA
Mar 6, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Great lead for a beginner! This was my second lead after a long hiatus from climbing and, while I did get nervous on one move, it was a pretty chill climb with jugs and great stances. This climb eats gear so I took advantage of the great stances and sewed it up because I had plenty of gear with me so why the heck not.

I used a #2, #3 and #3.5 for the anchor. As others mentioned, the belay bolts are no longer there and are completely unnecessary - I'm glad someone chopped them.

BETA ALERT: There is really only one move on this climb, which is coming out of the "pod" at the top. Don't be a wimp and cheat and go out right before this or you'll miss the best part. Place a good piece of pro, trust your feet, and go for it!

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