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South Face - Left Side
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Chauvinist, The T 
Chingadera T 
Heathen, The T 
Innominate, The T 
Left Ski Track T 
Offshoot, The T 
Right Ski Track T 
Sling Swing Traverse T 
South Face T 
Unchaste, The T 

The Chauvinist 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Powell, T, Rygg and Roy Coats, Jan 1964
Page Views: 2,169
Submitted By: Dpurf on Feb 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: The Chauvinist starts under the crack of Left Ski ...


The Chauvinist has a hard start for 5.8.

P1 - starts below Left Ski Track in a short dihedral. Climb straight up a steep and flared crack to easy face climbing just left of Left Ski Track to Left Ski Track 2 bolt belay.

P2 - Climb up to a pin, then open to face climbing with 3 bolts to a easy crack that lead to the top.


Pro to 2.5 inches

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By Brandon R
From: Sacramento, CA
May 13, 2006

The pin on pitch 2 is gone now, but it protects well with a medium stopper.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2007

The start is definately scary for 5.8 - make sure your belayer pros to the rock. But this is a fun route, well worth doing, and a nice mix of crack and face climbing. I thought route finding was a little difficult to start the second pitch as the bolts are hard to see from where the crack runs out.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Oct 9, 2012

Does anyone know what the line that leads directly above the P2 bolted belay is? Climbed up a couple bolts of this before I realized it was not 5.8 and I was off route...
By Bob Gaines
Oct 9, 2012

That's pitch 2 of the Feminist (5.11-) done by Erik Roed a few years ago. It's located between The Heathen and The Chauvanist, and joins The Heathen's third pitch at its last bolt (5 bolts total) ending at The Heathen's bolt anchor. (100 ft rap to Ski Tarcks/Chavanist anchor.)
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Oct 9, 2012

Thanks Bob!

FYI, if heading up this, bring a wrench for the second bolt. Cool terrain.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Sep 27, 2013

We were at Tahquitz in late june before the fires and looked at this line and decided to try it. It starts with a thin inside corner then the crack through the bulge. I was leading the first pitch, in the crux and was pulling rope for the clip, I put a bite in my mouth to get more rope and I snaped my front tooth out. I watched as it bounced down the climb, hit the slab and rolled down the mountain. It was a new cap. Later as we were heading back to Lunch rock, we stopped for a minute and one of our group looked down and said "is this a tooth ?" it was my cap right there about 100 yards down the hill.
By Tradiban
Feb 16, 2016

P1 is nothing but a direct start to Left Ski. To stay left of the LS is silly because you have to place gear in the crack. P2 was about 40ft of ok slab climbing. Move on...nothing to see here.
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did P1 of this, then P2 of Left Ski Track; combines the best pitches of each IMO

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