Lower Kaaterskill Creek Rock Climbing
As you start heading up the mountain from Palenville, you will see a variety of ice down and right along the sides of the Kaaterskill Creek. Many climbers have driven by for years, constantly eying the ever classic south facing Palenville Corner as they either build the skills necessary to lead it, or wait for it to come into the right conditions. There are several other more consistent routes on the north facing wall.
Follow Rte 23A through Palenville; as you exit Palenville and drive across the first, small bridge, there will be a parking lot just past that on the right, part-way up the hill. It can accommodate several cars; be sure to park politely and do not waste any space. Across the creek you will see Palenville Corner. Directly over the guardrail from the lower end of the lot you can see a drainage. That drainage leads to the main ice in The Chasm. Jeff's Wet Dream is further up the road and requires some walking.
Climbing Season For the Kaaterskill Clove area.
Weather station 3.8 miles from here
3 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Lower Kaaterskill Creek
WI4+ New York
: Catskills (Ice)
: ... : Lower Kaaterskill Creek
Across the Kaaterskill Creek from the Lower Katterskill Creek pull out is one of the finest routes I have climbed in the Catskill park. Elusive in nature due to its south facing aspect, this route can be found in a variety of conditions. For example, the route came in in February 2014 with a 40 ft free standing column start. Its current conditions, as an ice filled corner with column and curtain, appears to be more normal....[more] Browse More Classics in New York
From: Albany, NY
Mar 14, 2014
One of the first set of ice climbs as you travel west on 23A from Palenville. Park in the pull out 1.3 miles from the intersection of 23A and 32A in Palenville. I found it can hold 4 cars, and maybe 5 in a pinch. Across the stream and slightly upstream are the Palenville Corner and Palenville Pillar climbs. Less than 1/4 mile upstream from the parking is Jeff's Wet Dream.