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The Charlatan

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Fortune T 
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles) T 
Fancy Free T 
Gemstone T 
Northwest Route T 
Spooky T 
Superstition T 
Valley Guy, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Charlatan Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10825, -118.48129 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,290
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
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Michael & Tyson relax beneath the Lady...atop Char...

Description 

The Charlatan is the first major formation past the Magician. It sits directly above the Sorcerer. It is perhaps most famous for two routes -- one that ascends the strange blocky formation on the summit (Our Lady of the Needles), and another called Spooky which takes off from the Witch-Charlatan saddle (Spooky can also be accessed by hiking up to the summit and rapping in from anchor bolts). Fancy Free (5.10+) is another classic climb up obvious cracks on the east face of the Charlatan.

Getting There 

Once you pass the Magician, the trail will take you past the northen end of the Charlatan. The summit is an easy detour up a small trail, and climbs on either side can be accessed from the main trail as well.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.2 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Charlatan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Charlatan:
Charlatan Summit Spire (a.k.a. Our Lady of the Needles)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Spooky   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
The Valley Guy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Fancy Free   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Gemstone   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 175'   
Bad Fortune   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Charlatan

Featured Route For The Charlatan
Rock Climbing Photo: This summit shot, taken atop Spooky, shows the app...

Spooky 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Charlatan
Spooky is Marge's cat. It is also a great "end-of-the day climb" - especially after rapping off of the Sorcerer as it begins from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch.P1: Climb up a fairly easy slab/face on the SW corner of the Charlatan to an obvious ledge below a right-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Belay here, or, if you runner your gear well, continue on. P2: Ascend the OW (crux), and then continue more easily up the face and ribs of rock above. Belay at bolts on the summit. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Charlatan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: East Face Charlatan Needle
East Face Charlatan Needle
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Grieger stands atop the Charlatan (the Needle...
Matt Grieger stands atop the Charlatan (the Needle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great view of The Charlatan from atop The Sorcerer
Great view of The Charlatan from atop The Sorcerer
Rock Climbing Photo: The Sorcerer and the Charlatan.
The Sorcerer and the Charlatan.
Rock Climbing Photo: East Face of Charlatan Needle.  Fancy Free (5.10b)...
East Face of Charlatan Needle. Fancy Free (5.10b)...

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