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Upper Broadway
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcoa Presents T 
Amazing Grace T 
Castor T 
Changling, The T 
Conn's East T 
Conn's East Direct T 
Conn's East Lieback Variation T 
Dinah Moe-Hum T 
Dirty Old Man T 
Discontent T 
Expletive Deleted T 
Frosted Flake T 
Grand Finale T 
Hidden Assets T 
High Test T 
Hopeful Illusions T 
Kid Galahad T 
Low Octane T 
Nip and Tuck T 
Orangeaid T 
Pancho and Lefty S 
Pickleright T 
Pollux T 
Soler T 
Soler - Variation: Soler Escape T 
Spock's Brain T 
Talbert Picklefish T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Terra Firma Homesick Blues T 
Time Flies T 
Vietnam Veterans Against the Wall T 
Vision, The T 
Windy Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Changling 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Beatty & Woodruff - 1979
Page Views: 2,596
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Careful on the start


Possibly the best route on the wall! Begin 10 meters right of Conn's East Direct and climb a thin, right-facing, right-arching flake until it ends. Bust some cruxy moves up past the flake to the first of two bolts. Continue up thin face climbing and a seam to a roof which can be breached to the left.


Standard rack.

Photos of The Changling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the roof after the seemingly never endin...
Almost to the roof after the seemingly never endin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out on the Changling
Topping out on the Changling

Comments on The Changling Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Mar 14, 2009

Actually, it's a bit to the right of Conn's East regular start, not the direct start. Conn's East Direct is way farther up Broadway, near Pollux.
By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Got all the moves on toprope the other day (dammit I should have jumped on on lead, oh well.) Since I was toproping, I went right around the roof, which turns into about 20 feet of face climbing that gets REALLY thin right at the end.

Anybody ever go that way? Could be a cool variation, you could probably slam in a bolt from stance up there (it'd be freaky without it).
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Best route on the wall. Do not do in direct sunlight and bring micronuts ... used them in several places :)
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 12, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route but not as good as Terra Firma due to the bolts.

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