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The Chalk of Destiny 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: rob pizem
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: rob pizem on Oct 2, 2012

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Finger crack!!! Ah yeah.


This is a two pitch trad/mixed route. The first pitch is long and takes gear only. The second pitch has bolts to a finger crack. Climb past a small roof (left) up the black water streak to the ledge belay. Then crimp and finger lock you way to the top of the wall.


You can approach from Divide Rd. Park next to the old camping spot(the now fenced in area just past the quarry), and walk to the west along the top of the cliff to where the water drains over the edge (big grassy flat area 5 minutes (or less) from the car). Scramble down six frrt to a big ledge and a bolted anchor, and rap twice to the ground. OR from the canyon bottom, park at the old quarry entrance, and directly above where the entrance and the road meet, you are looking a small roof about 40 feet up with a black streak on the left side. Climb up that to a ledge with a head wall and follow crack and bolts to the top.


10 quickdraws and gear from fingers to 4 inches.

Photos of The Chalk of Destiny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin face climbing.
Thin face climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: Transitioning left to the finger crack.
Transitioning left to the finger crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route goes fromleft to right and back up the c...
BETA PHOTO: The route goes fromleft to right and back up the c...

Comments on The Chalk of Destiny Add Comment
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By rob pizem
Oct 2, 2012

First pitch is a 5.10 variety show with a short bit of crumbly rock under the roof (easy to protect).
Second pitch is balancy and crimpy to finger jams. 5.11 range.
If you want, there is an open dihedral to the left of this pitch that is in th 5.9 range. I have not been able to clean it yet, but there is a small shrub or two on the way up. Cheers to anyone who bring up the hand clippers.
Overall, both pitches are clean for sending and will clean up even more with some traffic. Great climbing and variety.

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