View of the Indian Peaks and the second pullout/ca...
This is a small, obscure collection of granitic craglets that lie nestled in the trees just west of CO 7 near the Ironclads. Some of the craglets here are short enough to have only limited bouldering opportunities. One craglet, what I will call Cays 5 is tall enough to have close to a ropelength's worth of climbing. There are a smattering of routes that might appeal to the seekers of the less traveled who are tolerant of some oddities.
Note, this area has a history of use by ATV riders, motorcyclists, campers, and gun enthusiasts. You may/will find shotgun, rimfire, large caliber centerfire shells, bits of orange clay pigeons, and even large slugs in the area. Oddly, there have been shells and clay pigeons even at the base of some of these crags. Interestingly, even arrows and golfballs have been found partway up these routes. Beware!
In the spring and early summer, you can find a small water source with pleasantly cool liquids for your pleasure.
Primitive camping is available below the crags. Unfortunately, some of the previous campers have left evidence of a lack of understanding of the "Leave No Trace" ethic common to most climbers. So, consider bringing bags to help clean up the area if you visit. Thanks!
You get some nice views of the Southern Indian Peaks here.
Some of the routes here are mentioned in Gillett's Estes Park Valley guidebook; however, there does not appear to be listings of these climbs in the newer St. Vrain guidebook.
Addendum: new signage apparently indicates this is a designated shooting area. Apparently, this may have occurred after a shooting range proposal was turned down.
From Lyons, head up CO 7 15 miles to the intersection with the Peak to Peak Highway. Head south 0.6 miles. If you have a low clearance vehicle, park on the east side of FR 217's intersection with CO 7 in a wide pullout. If you have high clearance, you can proceed closer to the crags. The first pullout/primitive campsite on the right will put you within a short walk of the various craglets. The second pullout/primitive campsite places you just below what we will call Cays 3, one of the more developed (this is a relative term) craglets here.
To help with trying to keep these routes in a more organized structure, let's number them south to north, Cays 1-5, for now. If there is already a different naming of the craglets, let me know and I can fix it.
Weather station 4.2 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Cays
Last Mango In Paris 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CO
: Estes Park Valley
: ... : Cays 3
This is a good route that ascends a slab and then fires over the right side of the roof above. It can be done in 1 or 2 pitches. I suspect that P2 was placed after P1 was done.P1. There are 2 starts to this slab, the left side is harder, 5.7. Starting slightly right of the 1st bolts makes the pitch go at probably 5.6. Continue up very pleasant, clean rock to a 2 bolt anchor below the roof. Note, it's easy to miss the 5th bolt.P2. Step up and easily clip the bolt over the little roof. Figur...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Cays 2 potential bouldering?
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 14, 2015
I think it is very important to point out that this area is a *designated* area for gun enthusiasts with signs indicating that shooting is permitted. This isn't just an area where people come to party, congregate, or camp and sometimes someone brings a gun. This area is *designated* for shooting, so expect people to be there shooting, and since there is no specific gun range, expect them to be shooting near you and hopefully not at you!