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The Cave Wall
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Becoming the Devil T 
Cave Corner T 
Cave Wall Crack Left, The T 
Cave Wall Crack Right, The T 
Chimney, The T 
Fallen Apart T 
Frozen Digits T,S 
Have Fun T 
Pucker Factor T 

The Cave Wall Crack Right 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: mr. mystery on May 7, 2009

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Cave Wall Crack Right

Description 

These cracks are seldom done due to the crumbly questionable rock. Climb up past a bolt and follow a crack right placing gear until you reach a bolt anchor with hangers.

Location 

The Cave Wall

Protection 

normal rack, bolts with hangers for anchor


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By Jason Denver
Mar 22, 2010

Just wanted to give credit to the first person I knew who lead this. Around 1998/'99 Travis Piper led this route before there was any fixed pro here. He went where the first bolt is and up the cracks above. Where the crack ends he traversed left into some horizontals and slipped off taking a huge fall almost decking because one of his pieces pulled. I heard he went back and led it cleanly in the next year or two. The name he was calling it was "Locked In" because someone closed the road gates while we were up there climbing. Should be safer now that there's an anchor to lower off from before the top.
By Brian Rhode
From: Boston, MA
Jul 21, 2012

I led Cave Crack Right last fall, on my first visit to this area. As we walked up though the woods from the parking lot the line beckoned to me, embedded as it is in really attractive white rock that runs up the center of this small crag. It starts with a boulder problem off the ground protected by the route's only bolt. Passing through an overlap, you come into some very good and well protected crack climbing, with an easier section leading to a harder bulge. Place bomber gear at the top of the bulge, take a deep breath, and balance traverse quite a ways out right with your feet hidden below you and very poor hands all the way to a bolted anchor at far right, do not fall off the traverse. Can you say spooky? I don't think of this line as at all crappy, loose or chossy, as indicated in the description- try it! I did not try the left variation.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Aug 22, 2013

Crap rock, not very enjoyable.

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