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Middle Earth
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42 T,TR 
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Black Planet T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Butterfingers Right T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
Cording T,TR 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
Hyper-Gamma Spaces TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Shadow Warrior T,TR 
Space Dwarves TR 
Sugarloaf Arete T,TR 
White Quartz Wielder T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

The Cave Route 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, wet in the Winter
Page Views: 2,071
Submitted By: A. Lombardi on Feb 10, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Climbing the Cave Route

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  • Description 

    The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch.


    Sugarloaf Mt, Middle Earth area, directly to the right of the 5.6 Seven Wishes.


    Not much gear required at all. Great tree trunk anchor at the top of the cave. Thats it!

    Photos of The Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tree anchor
    Tree anchor
    Rock Climbing Photo: Little dark up there
    Little dark up there
    Rock Climbing Photo: Squeezing out of the top!
    Squeezing out of the top!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Base of The Cave Route
    Base of The Cave Route

    Comments on The Cave Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By DennisL
    From: Bishop, CA
    Apr 22, 2013

    No need to rope up - just squirm and squeeze your way up the cave!
    By Bob Ewing
    From: Arlington
    Nov 24, 2013

    I like this climb, though my partner today hated it. There's a couple spots to place pro, including a nice #3 cam towards the beginning. After about 15 feet in you don't really need pro because it's so tight. And it does get tight!
    By Shop tech
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jul 20, 2014
    rating: 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c PG13

    Not two pitches.... not even one. Lose the rope and the harness, it get's tight.
    By snyoon
    Aug 6, 2015

    Definitely a unique climb! I placed a couple of smaller cams and then set up an anchor at the very top (12 feet above the tree). It created a lot of rope drag (not really recommended).

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