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The Cave Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ron Burgner and Don McPherson, 1968
Page Views: 2,821
Submitted By: Justin Slagle on Aug 6, 2009

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The route starts on the north side of Concord Tower about 50 feet down the gully from the notch at two semi-parallel diagonal cracks.

P1 (crux): Move up the two semi-parallel right diagonal cracks. Once past the diagonals, continue up a flake past a dead tree and again move up and right to another tree to belay from.

P2: From the belay, move up and to climber's left under an overhang and continue traversing left. Bring a few extender slings or rope drag will be an issue. The traverse will lead you around a corner and slings will be about 20 feet from the corner at the entrance of the cave to belay from.

Move through the cave (~20 feet) and belay from the other side.

P3: Looking up the face there's a 5.4 crack that leads to some face climbing to the top where there is a belay spot at a tree. To get into the crack you have two options, one is an exposed knobby slab to the left you can travel up to the crack or you can make the lie back move to get into the crack right off the bat. The rest of the pitch is easy face climbing.

Lastly, scramble up about 40 feet to the top to summit. It's very exposed so you might want to rope up. The rappel is on the west side of the summit.

The books i've read say it's a two rope rappel. When i did the two rope rappel, i had some significant trouble pulling the ropes and it LOOKED LIKE someone had set up another rappel halfway down so you only have to use one rope. After the two rope rappel, you'll be on a ledge, move to climber's right and there is one last rappel that takes you down along the first pitch of the north face and to the notch.


Pro to 4 inches

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By Curtveld
Jun 24, 2016

Fun adventurous route, though I found first pitch to be scary. Sparse gear, mostly cams placed behind creaky blocks. Very glad to have Supertopo beta: "bomber 0.75" cam right where you need it most"
By Eli
Jul 23, 2017

Look for a gear belay at the top of pitch one. The tree mentioned in the description is extremely loose.

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