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Unsorted Routes:

The Casting Couch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ronnie Miller, Christopher Bastek, Thomas Park
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,569
Submitted By: Chris Bastek on Feb 3, 2013  with updates from Joanna M

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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BETA PHOTO: The Casting Couch (January 2014)

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Head up the left arête or go straight up the face using the crack/seam for right hand and left arête for left hand. Straight up the face might be a bit harder than 5.9.

Note, this route isn't in the Marty's map of the area. It is two routes right of #23 Christmas Chocolate and on the left arete just left of #24 Casting Shadows. God Save The Ta Tas (another newer route) is the route left of this.

It's cleaning up more, but still a good idea to watch out for loose holds here and there.


Just left of Casting Shadows.


9 bolts with 2 Fixe ring anchors up top.

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By mcdanbrett
Apr 19, 2015

This is a very nice, steep and airy up the left side of the wall. As mentioned, there are a few less than bomber holds, but it seemed clean and nothing to back away from. Beautiful climb.
By climnron
May 18, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I'm changing my suggested rating back to my original. This route is 5.8 and not a bit harder. I was on it again a week ago and didn't notice any loose rock, but it is Queen Creek so things are always changing.
By Dan Evans
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 22, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climnron, I just looked at your page and if accurate, you appear to lead 5.12 trad and 5.13 sport. Please do not sandbag routes for moderate climbs as it gives climbers who ARE NOT as high and mighty as you a false sense of security thus leading to injury. And frankly you just make yourself look like a douche bag. This route is most definitely 5.9 (first half fairly sustained) and to suggest otherwise is absolutely ridiculous.

That been said, this is a great climb. The business is between the 1st & the 4th bolt. Once you reach the block past the 5th bolt climbing eases with a few 5.9 moves tossed in before you reach the anchor up top. Bolts are well spaced making it a safe lead for someone comfortable at the grade. Direct start is hard and in my opinion goes harder than 5.9. For an easier start, go left by the small bush. Highly recommend.
By luketipple
From: Bend, OR
Dec 1, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

An awesome climb! I think it goes best starting on the arete then moving out on to the face between bolt 2 and 3. There's a few fresh scars on the rock that suggest broken holds. I would have put it at 5.10a after my on-sight lead but after a couple more ascents on toprope I'm suggesting 5.9+.

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