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The Captain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
38 Special T 
Acapulco Gold T 
Captain Jameson T 
Cheap Thrills T,S 
Grandview T,S 
Hazed and Confused  S 
Kids with Guns  T 
Lunar Illusions T 
Outside Corner  T 
Puttin' In Time T,S 
Warning, The T 
Washed Out T 

The Captain Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,305'
Location: 44.0834, -71.462 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,835
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: john strand on May 28, 2008
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Casey and I getting Consumed by black flies on pit...


A pretty big, way backcountry crag with a long approach and AWESOME views. I am not kidding, this is a GREAT crag and well worth the long hike/bike.
A bit of history- I first read about the Captain in an old AMC hiking guide, '73 edition ? (the orange one). The guide suggested approaching after climbing Mt Carrigan, then bushwacking down the ridge. CRAZY.
It was also referenced in an '80's mtn bike guide to the area and indeed a good view can be gotten from "hayshed field".
I first went in with my wife as part of a bike trip, seems that bradley White was in around the same time and did a one pitch route. i don't know of anyone else (mike hartrich ? ) but I sure didn't see any activity when we first did routes in '97.
Alain Comeau- " I have seen that cliff, I'll fly you if you wanna jump in "

Getting There 

At the end of Sawyer river road, a bike path diverges right from the gate follow this along the river for a couple of miles past a bridge to a large clearing. From the back left side of the clearing tramp along the river to gravel clearing at the base of a long gully. Up this gully 'till it ends, then go left for 20 minutes to the base of the cliff. Allow 2-3 hours or more, a bike can shorten the ride out.

Climbing Season

Weather station 12.7 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Captain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Captain:
Puttin' In Time   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Captain

Featured Route For The Captain
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon on top of the 1st pitch

Puttin' In Time 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : The Captain
Great rock directly up the main slab.P1 5.8 bolts and a small cam 100' P2 5.10b super rock 3 bolts and some small cams, semi hanging belay 60' P3 5.11 bolts, a REALLY good pitch 90' and cool belay ledge looking out over the whole valley. P4 up to a bolt then right and up ( alittle runout)to a tree 5.9 150'...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of The Captain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Captain
The Captain
Rock Climbing Photo: On rapell
On rapell
Rock Climbing Photo: The Captain.
The Captain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Cliff view
Top of Cliff view
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the main slab
Looking up the main slab
Rock Climbing Photo: Take the North Fork
BETA PHOTO: Take the North Fork
Rock Climbing Photo: This is what I'll be doing, while the crew will be...
This is what I'll be doing, while the crew will be...
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic shot from up on the cliff. This seems li...
Panoramic shot from up on the cliff. This seems li...
Rock Climbing Photo: The cool campsite near the river. If you're planni...
The cool campsite near the river. If you're planni...

Comments on The Captain Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 28, 2017
By burlap submariner
Sep 10, 2009
John do you have any pics of these routes on the FA? I would love to see that.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 17, 2009
Somewhere. It was a long way in and we already had enough shit with us. it would be an awesome site for photos though, no signs of humanity at all. You can kinda see Greens from up high, people think that's hike ? Ha! The best thing is cool belay ledges too. Like the top of P1 Children's Crusade.
By chinos
Nov 22, 2009
If your looking for an alpine feel in NH this is your cliff. The bushwhacking is completely worth it.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 1, 2009
COOL ! In the photos, you can see the Prow up top. It looks awesome and will give very exciting climbing I'm sure ! Maybe a climb up to 5-6 pitches.
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Jun 14, 2010
is there beta for The Captain in any guidebooks currently in print?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 16, 2010
Nope, and i doubt there will be any time soon. It's just to far for most people.
By burlap submariner
Jul 10, 2010
Its not really even that far if you take a bike, I even had a huge haul bag for my gear and it was'nt that much of a pain in the ass. Strand is correct though, the majority of folks wont dig on the 'shwack to the base of the cliff. The best is getting out on a bike, the four miles goes by in about 30 min, wicked fun.
By Patrick Feeney
From: hartland vt
Feb 15, 2011
where is the Captain?im interested in going there
By Kai Troester
From: Pepperell, MA
Aug 30, 2011
I found it on Google. Here are the GPS coordinates: 44.083362,-71.46203
By cwoodman
From: Lincoln, NH
Sep 28, 2011
Did a recon trip in with Jack Dorsey recently. Because the Sawyer River Rd. is closed indefinitely, we biked in via the Sawyer River Trail from the Kanc (unfortunately a much longer alternative). From the last big clearing, we hiked straight in, following a trail and white ribbons. At some point, this trail just ended, so we bushwacked down to the stream and eventually made it to the gravel campsite. We then hiked up the slide/streambed which headed up right, then bushwacked left for a bit til we hit the ribboned trail coming up along the stream to the slabs. Very impressive expanse of rock. I'm gonna get to know the approach a lot better before I haul in a lot of gear. Awesome place. Tons of respect for anyone doing FA's in there!
By jimmi jazz
From: Denver co
Sep 28, 2011
thanks chuck. its such a great place to go. it's a remote cliff. did you climb any of the routes out there. Is that your first time out there? if you want we should meet and do some fa's........ how was the ride from the kank?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 28, 2011
When we first went in , around '95 or so, the road was washed out as well, near the house. It's still better than the kanc approach 'cause the road is easy on a bike and so good coming out.
IMO the gully approach the bush left is pretty good -45 from the camp

Great place
By cwoodman
From: Lincoln, NH
Sep 29, 2011
Yeah, I prefer Sawyer River Rd. if it's open (which it's not), and biking uphill on the road from 302 may or may not be easier than coming from the Kanc. Our ride was nice and flat and not too far. Anyway, the Forest Service person I talked to about the road said "It's closed- no biking, no hiking up it". Seemed like the Kanc was our only alternative.
By jimmi jazz
From: Denver co
Oct 23, 2011
went out a couple of weeks ago, road still closed but that didn't stop the chinos. the aproch took about 4 to 5 hrs in. the ride out was super fast....
By john strand
From: southern colo
Oct 23, 2011
having the road closed sure makes the way in a lot longer, but blazing down a leaf covered trail with a big pack is a blast
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 9, 2013
If you go in right now, be aware that it is bear hunting season. I spoke to one bow hunter in a full Ghillie suite in the parking lot recently and he said they generally go in on the west side of Sawyer river rd (meaning towards the Captain) and set up tree stands and leave bait. So maybe don't wear your favorite bear costume (dark pack and pile jacket) and pick up apples laying on the ground. They can also chase you with hounds apparently.
By Zac St. Jules
From: New Hampshire
Aug 8, 2015
Am interested in any info regarding the ice on the captain... Would love a PM regarding this.
By Colonel Sandbag
From: Boston, MA
Jul 23, 2017
Went out this weekend. The path from the back left of the clearing was not at all obvious, so we followed the river up and up and up and up. Very arduous. Came within a few hundred yards of the big slab but the woods seemed too thick. We worried about getting back to the river which, at that point, is just a trickle in the woods. We turned around without climbing.

Can anyone who has been to this cliff plot their route on a map and post it?
By Dave Curry
From: Warwick, RI
Jul 27, 2017
I went out there last year, didn't find any sort of trail after the clearing, continued up the right side to a headwall and then left and trended up, 2 hours of the worst bushwack ever.
Came back out by the streambed, that was much easier.
Started out on Puttin in Time but didn't feel it, and didn't really want to trust the old 1/4" bolts on it, so moved over to Captain Jameson.
Took me a long time to talk someone into going out there, not sure I will find anyone to go for a repeat either.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 27, 2017
If the bolts are really old 1/4"ers, it would be nice to replace them for John. How many bolts total? Looks like ~20 in his topo. SS glue-ins or better to stick with 1/2" Rawls in that area?
By Mike Morin
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 28, 2017
My $.02, go with 1/2" stainless Rawls in bomber granite. Glue-ins certainly have their place, but in hard rock I like the greater potential for another round of like for like replacement that using 5-piece bolts could allow for down the road. Looking at the photos for Puttin in Time, the bolts don't look like 1/4", but certainly look very rusty. Perhaps there's a mix?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 28, 2017
Yeah, the stud bolts look bigger than 1/4" in the pictures, but I haven't seen them in person. He used 5/16 buttonheads on his route at Greens. With Rawls Chinos hangers could probably be used, which I bet he would appreciate.
By Dave Curry
From: Warwick, RI
Jul 28, 2017
They may have been 5/16", but they really didn't inspire confidence, there was a good chance I would be falling on them.
I would be willing to help out on the replacement.

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