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The Capstan

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Just Right 
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 
South Crack 
Trough Direct SDS, The 
West Face [The Capstan] TR 

The Capstan Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.00276, -105.29548 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,740
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
This Afternoon

71° | 46°
Friday

63° | 44°
Saturday

55° | 42°
Sunday

63° | 43°
Memorial Day

65° | 44°
Tuesday

66° | 47°
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Description 

great rock, with some difficult boulder problems at the base and some highball boulder problems/short TR climbs. Huecos line the lower third of the rock and are filled with chalk, making it immediately noticable from the road. For TR: Two nice horns are perfect for two five foot slings. Access to the top is via an easier boulder problem on the north side just off the road. There's a hard-to-see crimper on the slight gully up the rock that makes the problem much easier; above that it's an easy scramble. Watch out for cars.

Getting There 

1.4 miles up Baseline (measured from the fire danger sign) at the hairpin turn. It's hard to miss. You can park on the left side of the road (driving up the road) and park directly underneath.

Climbing Season

For the Flagstaff area.

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Capstan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Capstan:
South Crack   V3- 6A X     Boulder   
Just Right   V7 7A+     Boulder   
The Trough Direct SDS   V8 7B     Boulder   
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS)   V9 7C     Boulder, 15'   
West Face [The Capstan]   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Capstan

Featured Route For The Capstan
Rock Climbing Photo: Beta photo: Trough Direct SDS.

The Trough Direct SDS V8 7B  Colorado : Boulder : ... : The Capstan
This is a great problem that has some really fun powerful moves. It starts with a low sds right hand on a large cobble and your left hand on a small sidepull down really low or in a tiny mono. Your feet are smearing on some small pebble patches and never really feel solid. Once you manage to pull off the ground, start by going up left hand to a poor sidepull pinch and make a strong move right to a good sharp edge. Get your feet up and cross into another sharp pinch. Finally go up left hand to an...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of The Capstan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Copperhead at the Capstan...      ...yeah, someone...
Copperhead at the Capstan... ...yeah, someone...

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