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Candy Stick, The T 
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The Candy Stick 


Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 90', Grade II
Original: A2 [details]
FA: Crusher Bartlett, Chip Wilson, April 22, 2009
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Oct 24, 2016

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Looking down the route from about 3/4 of the way u...


The climb takes intermittent cracks on the east-northeast side of the formation.
1. Start on the east corner, follow zigzagging cracks. About one third of the way up is an obvious short section of deep crack that takes excellent large cams, then mostly thin nailing in calcite seams up and left to a flake crack, then a short rotten section to the top (90’, A2)


From Hanksville, drive west on Highway 24 over the Fremont River. Turn right (north) on River North Road. Drive a half mile, locate the tower up and right.
Descent: rappel the route from three fixed spikes, made from angle iron. The first one is about 14 inches long. The other two, on the west side of the summit, are about 9–10 inches long. Drilled holes in the spikes are threaded with 5mm cord. The cord may need replacing/rethreading.


Gear: 12 large Toucans (large Tomahawks would likely work fine, though the super-thin blades of the Toucans work great in the calcite seams. Peckers are fatter, might blow out the cracks), a handful of Lost Arrows. One each angle to 2”. Small selection of nuts. Cams, one each from 1.25-inch to #4.5 Camalot, plus a couple extra 4-inch cams. Tie-offs, quickdraws (to alleviate rope drag).

Photos of The Candy Stick Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the rap anchors.
One of the rap anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: That's the rack! Chip at the summit
That's the rack! Chip at the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: stacked Toucans. Bomber!
stacked Toucans. Bomber!
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip Wilson near at the top
Chip Wilson near at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Crusher, on FA. Chip Wilson photo
Crusher, on FA. Chip Wilson photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Candy Stick. Route is on this side.
Candy Stick. Route is on this side.

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