Taken from the Internet for documenting this climb...
The Candle is a striking slender 90' pinnacle to the north of Muralla Grande
. As far as small spires in the Sandias go, this one's really impressive, and is gained by a great 5.6 climb. It is located just north of the larger Cake
tower, and both are commonly climbed together.
Rappel 90' down the south side to descend.
From the Crest, follow the Chimney Canyon Trail to the aspen grove above Muralla Grande. Wander into the pines to the north, and drop off to the west down the "CC Couloir". There's no obvious trail. Keep occasionally peeking over the ridge to the south, to spy the obvious spire of the Candle. The last part is steeper, and may have short 3rd class sections, as you drop down to the west side of the Candle.
Climbing Season For the Chimney Canyon area.
Weather station 0.3 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Candle
Southeast Corner 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b New Mexico
: Sandia Mountains
: ... : The Candle
For an easy 1-pitch climb in the Sandias, the SE Corner (SE Ridge) has it all: great exposure, fun moves, and a wonderful summit. (Seriously. I can't think of many individual pitches 5.7 or under in the Sandias that are as good as this one.)From the west side of the Cake and Candle, climb up to the notch between the two towers. The Candle is to your left. Start on the Candle by hand traversing to its right-hand edge. Follow the crack system on the exposed arete, passing 2 pitons. There are ...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
By Nick Davis
Aug 23, 2016
The same comment I left on the Cake about the approach:
The approach is a bit of a wild bushwhack. We parked below the summit at the last switch back on the road before the top and followed the crest trail north to the turn to the trail that cuts back under the Data Towers. Obvious climbers trail drops from there.
Follow the path from the aspen grove described above towards the overlook at the top of Grande. After dropping 1/3 way down towards the open clearing, cut right/north into the woods following the contour about 100yds. You'll pass an odd-looking log structure, trend downhill/nnw here staying above the trough and below the ridge to the left/sw. Drop approximately 100 vertical through thorny bushes and trees and keep an eye on the rocks on the ridge.
Look for the "cut" that lets you around the ridge and into the couloir that has a series of ledges on the far/south side of the ridge. Ledges are narrow and full of loose dirt and spit you sliding down to the Cake and Candle. I had to lower my dog down to very steep portions he wasn't comfortable on.