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McCullough Gulch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Canary Couloir, The T 
Claim Jumper T 
Gold Miner's Daughter T 
Noxious Fumes T 
Quandary Couloir T 
Tommy Knocker T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Canary Couloir 


Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 1500', Grade III
Original: M2-3 Steep Snow [details]
FA: FA?, First ski descent- Taylor B.
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/Spring
Page Views: 436
Submitted By: Taylor-B. on Sep 19, 2014

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Looking down at the bottom half of the route with ...

Please respect the mining claims in this area.


This route takes the striking couloir-weakness up the north face of Quandary. It is prudent to have a good freeze and an early start in order to minimize the primary objective hazard of rockfall from the east-facing side of the couloir that gets early AM sun.

Depending on snow and ice conditions, there are 3-4 cruxes that merit a rope at M2-3+, very condition dependent. There "looks" to be a 3rd class escape gully halfway up on the climber's left that will take you to the east ridge.

Descend: the East ridge is the topout, or ski it with 2-3 rappels in a good snow year.


Take CO Hwy 9 up Hoosier Pass to County Rd 850. County Rd 850 takes you along the south side of Quandary Peak up to Blue Lakes. Take a right off of County Rd 850 onto County Rd 851 [which] takes you around the north side of Quandary up McCullough Gulch. In the winter, County Rd 851 is closed due to snow and adds on many miles but not that much vertical to the approach. Follow the same directions as for Claim Jumper and Noxious Fumes, at the beaver ponds hike west up towards the large rock glacier terminal moraine. From the upper parking lot to the base is approximately 1.5-2 hours. You can descend down the standard east ridge.


Small rack with a few thin pins and a few ice screws.

Photos of The Canary Couloir Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the rock glacier moraine during th...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the rock glacier moraine during th...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Face of Quandary Peak.
BETA PHOTO: North Face of Quandary Peak.

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