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Storm Boulders
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Calm Before The Storm, The T 

The Calm Before The Storm 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Justin Edl, Jesse Brown, Dave Mayville, 2008
Page Views: 535
Submitted By: JNE on Jul 28, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Shane under the Beast after almost flashing it...n...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a beautiful little laser cut hairline seam reminiscent of Old Dogs New Trick. Thankfully there are enough finger pods to let it go at a reasonable grade. Stand start in the first obvious finger pod and dance your way to the top. This is a great little problem for those not too versed in crack climbing, as the climb requires less crack specific technique than most crack problems at Vedauwoo. Bring your edging shoes. Named because of the unnaturally calm day when this was put up.

Location 

As you approach the Storm Boulders, this crack is on the large boulder on the right (west) side. It faces south, away from the road.

Protection 

A pad or two. One large pad is probably sufficient especially if you bring a backpack or something to fill the small hole at the base of the climb, thus keeping your pad from sliding out of the landing zone.


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By molony
Feb 11, 2009

One of the best boulder problems in Vedauwoo, top five at least. Give it a try, even if you can't crack climb, you'll love it.
By bart cubrich 1
Nov 7, 2015
rating: V7 7A+

This climb would be four stars if the rock weren't so crumbly. Not so hard if you have a good ape index and are tallish. Definitely very cool movement, hard to believe you can climb so high in so few moves.
By JNE
Nov 7, 2015

Good job finally putting this one down, Bart! My short self was proud to do it in about 30 minutes my first day there :)

For future reference, when downgrading routes or boulder problems, to do so without being an ass, it requires that either you got up the boulder in roughly the same amount of time it takes you to get up boulders of a similar grade, or that you suddenly found new beta which was much easier than what you were trying. Just FYI ;)

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